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  • #16
    I would recomend making all of your connections, and then turn on the power supply. When you turn on the power supply and try to set it in CC mode with out a load on it, the volts are naturally going to go high, I believe the power supply would act as if there were a bad connection somewhere. If you didn't have a welded connection, that high voltage alone could damage the connection at the part. When everything is correct, when you turn on the power supply the volts will start low and rapidly come up, the slowly rise to a peak which will occur some where in the vicinity of what is probably the optimum anodizing time for the conditions and amps used per square foot of part size (current density).

    The voltage curve will vary according to the alloys though, 2000 series tend to result in lower voltage and it drops faster than 6000 series for example.

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    • #17
      Hi M_D,
      I Dont actually turn it on then hookit up, Im to chicken to chance the arcs around the acid.
      What I meant was the volts show 31.5 and and will not go down unless conected to a part, and only after I start dailing in the amps.

      However the instructions here on the website do say to turn on the supply then make the conection.

      For constant amperage control

      1. Adjust the fine and course voltage controls to the maximum position.
      2. Adjust the fine and course current controls to the minimum position.
      3. Switch the power ON.
      4. Connect the plating tank to the unit
      5. Adjust the fine and course current controls to the required amperage.

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      • #18
        R-Wells,

        Do not use that power supply further, you could start a fire. Contact Caswell Inc. about a replacement. From what you have told us, the unit is defective and should be replaced under warrantee. Tell them Fibergeek said its defective.

        We won't be able to take the connection issue further until this get fixed.

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        • #19
          Hi Fibergeek,
          That is the plan of attack at the moment.
          I apreciate you guys helpin me chase my tail here.

          Thanks
          Rusty

          Comment


          • #20
            R-Wells,
            Just a note to make you feel better, or give you a chuckle. Monday afternoon UPS brought my new 20A PS. Monday evening I changed out the 3A PS for the 20A PS and guess what? I got the same readings you did, and the smoke to go along with it. Only it didn't leak out it poured. From what I saw, I don't think you have any problems but the PS.

            Fibergeek,
            I discontinued use and filed a PRS. I did notice something I thought was odd. Before hooking up, I turned the unit on to check it out and noticed the cooling fan shut off at different positions of the calibration knobs. I don't know if it means anything but all the PS I've dealt with, the fan always ran when the unit was on.

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            • #21
              Hi sswee,
              Actually that makes me feel a lot better.
              The cooling fan in mine quit completly.
              I called Caswell yesterday, now I am waitting on UPS.

              Thanks
              Rusty

              Comment


              • #22
                Hi all,
                I received a new Power supply from caswell.
                This one seems to be working correctly,
                With the other one the volts started at 31.5 and decreased as I dialed the amps up,
                This one starts at near 0 and increases as I dial the amps up.

                I still have a few problems though, the volts begin to drop after about 60 minutes,
                If I leave the part in for longer I get a chalky finish, if I pull the part as soon as the volts begin to drop I don’t get good dye.
                I am seeing about 12.5volts before they begin to drop.
                I am also seeing an 8-10 degree temp increase in the 90 minutes.
                Is this temp increase likely to be the problem?


                Thanks

                Comment


                • #23
                  Hey R-Wells,
                  What CD are you trying? I've been using 6A/ft sq with good results. At 70 degree electrolyte, the voltage starts dropping around 50 to 60 min.
                  Your temp increase is increasing the dissolution. How is your agitation? My tank is close to the same size and I only get a couple of degrees rise.

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                  • #24
                    Hi sswee,
                    4.5 apsf.
                    the part I am doing is 2.4 feet .
                    I am using aqaurium pumps, and today I tried more air using my compressor, that helped alittle but not enough.
                    How much temp variance before it becomes a problem?
                    I am starting at 68 degrees and ending a t 76-78 degrees.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I'm running 2 aquarium pumps into a PVC grid. I have noticed a slight chaulkyness at about 75 degrees. Have you tried a fan on the tank to dissapate the heat? May need a bigger tank or use a tank in a tank with an ice bath for parts that size. Fibergeek is more knowledgable and should be able to help with this problem better than I can. SS

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                      • #26
                        Sswee has it right.

                        A fan can help for sure, the temperature rise that you are seeing is too high and you're going to have dissolution problems if you don't have them already. A larger tank (more electrolyte volume for the size work your doing) also helps alot.
                        To avoid dissolution electrolyte agitation is actually more important than electrolyte temperature, generally speaking. The electrolyte temperature in the pores is what actually counts.

                        Sswee, if you experience any "chaulkyness" at 75 deg. F. its the onset of dissolution. You should reduce your temperature to maybe 70 deg. F. or better yet improve your agitation. What you have now sounds borderline.

                        Remember, the temperature in the pores is what counts.

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                        • #27
                          Thanks Guys,
                          Thats kinda what I figured.
                          I dont forsee doing many parts this big so Id rather not go to a bigger tank.
                          Cooling will be a big issue this summer for me, so Iguess I need to figure out how to cool and aggitate.
                          I have been looking at the Little Gaint Pumps, but I havnt come up with a semi economical cooler, I cant seem to get myself to purchase a $600-$700 aquarium chiller.

                          Thanks

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            In our setup with fairly decent agitation, we have run it to 78-80º without any noticeable problem, but after that problems begin to show, although it isn't horrible even then. But, there is a significant difference though between completely fresh electrolyte and older electrolyte. It's not that the new electrolyte will not work, but the operating parameters seem to need adjusting between fresh and old electrolyte. We found that out when the entire solution was changed once, now we just change part of it once in a while to keep it.

                            I think if you agitate it better, it will help as fibergeek suggested.

                            Also, some where lately there was a thread about running the coolant through vinyl hoses and chilling it in water. It won't equal a properly sized commercial chiller, but it will help. If you use ice water in a 15-20 container, you might be able to sustain 10, 15 or maybe even 20 amps worth of cooling. If you aren't going to be anodizing larger pieces all day long, it might be all you need.

                            I have found that a temperature rise of more than 3-4º in a cycle shows a marked increase in defects. Even if you start at 70º and end up at 75º, it seems to be worse that starting at 75º and ending at 75 or 76º, assuming good agitation is used.

                            Also, having a completely de-oxidized part should prolong the point disloution. And although I didn't notice if said what aluminum you are anodizing, some alloys are trickier than others.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Hi guys, That was me that described cooling/heating by running 50' of vinyl hose from the submerged pump, through the heated/chilled water tank and back into the ano tank.
                              I'm having second thoughts on this method. I suspect the vinyl hose has begun to break down. I noticed a fine oily film floating on the surface of my electrolyte. I skimmed this off, but upon closer inspection, I've found the vinyl hose has a sticky feel to it. I'm going to switch it out with rigid PVC pipe glued with a lot of elbows. I'll let you know how that works.

                              Using a ten gal. heating/cooling tank maintains the temp to within a couple of degrees of 70F while anodizing up to 1.5 sq. ft of surface area @ 6A/SF CD.
                              I do things.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Ok, I think I have everything ironed out finally.
                                I am using an small ac unit to cool my tank, and still using aquarium pumps to irritate the acid.
                                The AC unit is holding my temp at 72 degrees with no increase at all doing 2.4 sqf.
                                I did two of the parts today, both came out good.

                                Thanks For the help

                                Rusty

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