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  • fxstcguy98
    replied
    Thanks all for the help. It sounds like I would need another PS, that's getting to be way more expensive than it's worth to do one wheel. I was hoping since I have a plating setup, I could use what I already have. I can buy a chrome wheel for around $300, maybe I will go that route. Thanks again.

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  • sswee
    replied
    MC - motorcycle. I've a 82 XLS. Like M_D said peak voltage needed for a 3amp CD is 7.5 volts. That's about as low as you want to go and is only a calculated value. It could be +-2 volts depending on the variables

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  • M_D
    replied
    I think you would need 10+ volts. It will vary according to conditions and current density. The is a current thread entitled "Peak Voltage ?" that may provide you with some usable information.

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  • fxstcguy98
    replied
    my rectifier is CC or CV but the max voltage is 5.5V, is that enough? I don't understand what MC is sswee, but the wheel is off a Harley.

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  • sswee
    replied
    Is that Fatboy as in MC? Depending on the style, amps needed could be a bit different. Haven't had any parts turn milky. Anodize over clearcoat any day in my book. Like M_D said, you need to check you max voltage on your rectifier and if it is constant current capable.

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  • M_D
    replied
    I don't know the maximum voltage of your rectifier or if it is constant current cabable or not, but I do know some plating rectifiers have a lower maximum voltage limit than is required by anodizing unless the current density (amps per square foot of part) is kept low.

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  • fxstcguy98
    replied
    Thanks guys
    21Amps are no problem, I have a 150A rectifier that I use for my chrome plating. I haven't tried anodizing yet, I will practice on a few parts after I get this chrome thing down. The wheel is off a "Fatboy" which isn't really that shiny to begin with. If I polish to a mirror shine and it gets a little duller, that's cool with me. I just want to make sure it wouldn't turn out milky looking.

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  • sswee
    replied
    I agree with acidrain. I polish alot of parts to anodize and they loose a little shine but still look great. Not a super big difference than clear polyurathane parts I've done. Something to think about though is to anodize a 15" x 7" rim will take approx. 21 amps at a 4.5A CD.

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  • acidrain
    replied
    Typically, anodized polished parts don't retain the full shine they had at the beginning of the process. The slight dulling effect can be minimized by anodizing for shorter times, resulting in a thinner anodized layer.
    On some polished wheels, instead of anodizing, they are sealed with a clear urethane coating.
    I suggest experimenting, or at least looking at some clear anodized parts for reference.

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  • fxstcguy98
    started a topic polished alum

    polished alum

    If I polished up alum wheels to a mirror shine. Can I anodize them clear and still maintain the shine? Would I have to seal it?
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