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Anodizing problems with Loctite?

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  • Anodizing problems with Loctite?

    I am working on both my Ano line and an Aluminum part. The part need to have a hole plugged and to seal the plug, I generally just use Red Loctite.

    I was wondering what I should expect to happen if that part goes into the ano stage


  • #2
    What kind of plug are you using?


    • #3
      Originally posted by sswee
      What kind of plug are you using?
      Aluminum part with an aluminum plug.

      I am already aware the problems with wrong metals in the bath, but I want to plug this hole and seal it with Loctite, then polish, then ano.

      Do you have experience with this?


      • #4
        Yes but I use rubber plugs and don't have to use a sealant. I didn't want to say anything without knowing the details. Sorry if I ruffled you feathers.


        • #5
          I guess I was just confused. Sorry about that.

          When you asked your question, I was like.....ahh....."well does it matter, as I still need to know about the loctite" I guess you were able to read that I was a bit irriatated.

          Thanks for your post either way.

          I am learning a lot just by reading your posts and others on this Forum. It is very usefull.

          I even calculated my first 720 rule for .7mils. It isn't bad once you put it on paper, and think through it. It does help to have the part in Solidworks as surface area is a click away.


          • #6
            There is a good chance the loc-tite will insulate the plug and it won't ano.
            I did a two-piece paintball barrel the other day that was factory joined in the middle. It only ano'd on the side that was connected. I had to give the customer a new barrel.
            I do things.


            • #7
              Your the only one to post on Loctite. I used it for years on many things, just not this application on a regular basis. I did do a part that had a repair plug press fit in with Loctite and had no adverse effects. Have you considered using silicone. It should give you an equivolent seal and I would figure a little easier to get the plug out after anodize without worrying about a reaction. That's presuming you are taking the plug out after and it's threaded.


              • #8
                Silicone is out, as I need the strength of loctite.

                Acidrain, good point. I guess it might work as long as you ohm out the part and the plug. If they are short, then maybe it would work fine.

                I am still concerned if the acid bath with eat away at the loctite.

                I guess trial and error is in order.


                • #9
                  Acidrain -

                  Not to deviate from topic, but I too have done that before. Typically with my mistakes, its on a press fit feedneck. I find by giving the insulated part its own lead to current, Ive pretty much alleviated that problem.

                  Buying customers after you break it... yea, we've ALL been there.


                  • #10
                    I have to question why you need to loctite the threaded plug prior to anodizing it.

                    Plugs exist in many shapes, and sizes, and material types. Nylon, Plastic, Cork, Rubber. I have used them all in a commercial environment. I see no reason to loctite a plug prior to anodizing. Plug the hole, anodize the part, attach the permanent plug and loctite it in place. That eliminates the problem of the loctite causing issues (which it should not) and I think you'll be happier in the end anyway.
                    J & J Plating Company - 30 years in the anodizing business. 1975-2005


                    • #11
                      He never said the plug was threaded.
                      Someone has said they had problems using Loctite on a surface that had been anodized prior to installing a part. The plug prior to anodize is for cosmetic reasons the majority of the time. At the least, trying to anodize and dye the same color something the size of a plug would be a royal bother.


                      • #12
                        I've been gluing plugs in aluminium tube for a while now and never had problems with the contact. In plug is slightly tapered and I turn to the exact size so it needs a tap with a hammer. Could you do this? It's Loctite 326 I use. There are definitely conductive glues although I'm not sure if 326 is - I've never had contact problems so I've never enquired. The only problems I've had is with some of the chemicals getting stuck between the 2 parts and leeching out during the dye process. I used to use 120 grade wet n' dry to roughen the surfaces before glueing but Loctite advised that the glue bonds on a microscopic level so roughening at this grade makes little difference. I now use 1200 grit and it's minimised problems considerably.