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  • Paintball annodizing

    I recently purchased the LCD kit and have no idea what im doing since I have never annodized anything before.I purchased this kit srtictly for the purpose of annodizing paint ball guns.I am wondering if 1 should I anodize the gun with the grip frame and receiver asembled or disasembled and 2 what method is used for determining the surface are on such a complicated piece.I am also wondering if the annodizing thickness will interfere with the bore sizing of the barrel and bolt chamber.Im already regreting purchasing this kit and I think Im in way over my head if anyone can shed some light please do.I wont do any work until I know it wont harm my gun.
    Bunker Well And Shoot Like Hell

  • #2
    Re: Paintball annodizing

    The parts need to be disassembled to anodize.

    A measuring tool and little math to figure surface area. The closer the better but if your within 10 to 20% it will work.

    A strip and re anodize should not affect bore size enough to worry. If you are concerned with it you can plug the bore.

    Now, back to the beginning. Do you have a power supply, battery acid, distilled water, and the manual? Have you read the instructions? It's not that difficult to do but you need to get some practice on scap material before you go dipping your gun. The members of the forum can help you through this endeavor. Several of them do mostly just paintball guns. SS

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    • #3
      Re: Paintball annodizing

      Yes, exactly as sswee said... fully understand the concept. learn the 720 rule. get all the equipment and practice on scraps many times before attempting a real part.
      When you strip and re-ano, you will loose about .001in from the surface. This will not affect the breach, ram housing or regs, but it will make a .689 barrel a .691. Two piece barrels are easy because you can cork the ends of the barrel backs (the fronts don't matter) before stripping and ano.
      Study the tutorial and get back to us with any specific questions you may have.
      I do things.

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      • #4
        Re: Paintball annodizing

        I do have all the suplies listed including acid distilled water and a power source.I have never had to deal with electricity before so Im a bit confused.I have a battery charger and dimmer switch set up.I was also wondering if any method exists to get maximum mechanical wear and scratch resistance from the film layer.I have not tried any work yet but I plan to tomorow.I am also wondering if the 3 amp rectifier is a good choice for paintball guns.I do not see my self using this kit for any other purpose exept guns so if it will do the job well and make it bit easier on me Ill have it rushed to me.
        Last edited by 707Killa; 09-27-2005, 04:43 AM.
        Bunker Well And Shoot Like Hell

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        • #5
          Re: Paintball annodizing

          What has you confused on the electricity? You get stronger coatings by growing a coating with a smaller pore size. This is done with CD, tank temp, tank aeration or agitation. Acidrain is more familiar with the paintball gun SA's and the power required for them. If the 3A PS is big enough it will definitly make things alot more simple and easier for you.

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          • #6
            Re: Paintball annodizing

            Your power source seems a bit small... You will want to ano all the parts together, or take a chance that there will be minor color differences between the parts.
            An entire gun including barrel, regs, and all the other periferal stuff usually runs about 1 to 1.5 sq. ft. of surface area. You mentioned durability of the ano layer... I ano at 6 amps per sq. ft. CD for a smaller pore structure (which equals more durable), yet still concidered LCD and easily dyed. So at that CD, and with a 1.5 sq. ft. batch, a PS capable of 9amps, at 15volts is required. I use a 10amp CC PS, but I'm thinking of getting a larger one.
            With your 3amp PS, you will be able to ano somewhere between .5 to 1 sq. ft. of surface area depending on what CD you decide to ano at.
            Remember, carefully calculate the surface area, and experiment with scraps. When making changes in your process, change one thing at a time.
            Take good notes too... prep method, acid temp, CD, time of run, parts area, target CD, actual amps, volts curve, color, pretty much anything you can document, do so.
            This is science, and if you approach anodizing scientically with controlled experiments, you'll have repeatable results!
            Let us know how it goes, and feel free to ask any qustions you may have.
            I do things.

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            • #7
              Re: Paintball annodizing

              So am I better off using the battery charger/dimmer set up or geting the 3 amp rectifier I dont want to spend too much on a larger amp rectifier so if I get one the 3 amp is as far as I'm going
              Bunker Well And Shoot Like Hell

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              • #8
                Re: Paintball annodizing

                CC power supply is always best for anodizing.
                However, it can be done using a charger, but you will have to periodically alter the current as it will drop off, due to increased resistance of the growing anodize film.

                Acidrain has given you some specs on what the 3amp machine will do. It looks like it will be a little on the small side.
                Gotta do the maths, sorry.

                --
                Mike Caswell
                Caswell Inc
                http://www.caswellplating.com
                Need Support? Visit our online support section at http://support.caswellplating.com

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