Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

[acidrain]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

I quit using baking soda. It affected some of my dye results.

[Sid03]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

i use the baking soda and havnt had a problem.

[jamerson]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

I ano shockers all the time . you need to shorten or eliminate deoxidizing be for you ano. and instead of nutralizing your parts with baking soda water just wash with straight water. I order raw shockers from smart parts and trick them out and sell them at my store. Satisified customers all the time.

[mti11988]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

I have silkscreened on aluminum several times. Contact me at [email protected] seperately and I will fill you in on what I have found.
Bill

[Sid03]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

Thanks for the info, most of it I knew but the tolerance issue was new info to me, I would need it for alloy 2026, shockers are made of this alloy and they always turn out matte for me no matter how much a polish them.

First off, shockers arent made of 2026(unless they have changed it recently)

Secondly, if you get a matte finish after polishing I dont think bright dip is going to help. You can get a nice gloss on shockers without bright dip.

[Paintbalaguy]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

Thanks for the info, most of it I knew but the tolerance issue was new info to me, I would need it for alloy 2026, shockers are made of this alloy and they always turn out matte for me no matter how much a polish them.

[gutopepo]

Re: Bright Dip or alternitive, silk screening

I am assuming you are thinking of electro-polishing paintball gun parts. I HIGHLY recommend against this unless you know exactly what alloys the parts are made out of. This is not like anodizing. some things to consider:

1. Different Va requirements for different alloys that range from 10-100 amps.

2. While there are safe chemicals they are blended to work on specific alloys only. ie: 1 complete gun may require 3-4 different baths!

3. Most paintball gun parts are made out of "inexpensive" alloys which have a high silicone and copper content. These are attacked VERY aggresively by the polish process.

4. Setup and maintainence of the bath is expensive.

5. The process REMOVES surface material, thus altering dimensions anywhere from .0001 to .05 depending on the alloy.

6. The process is unforgiving at best. 1 oops and a customers $300.00 gun is a paperweight!

However, Conquer these and some alloys can achieve finish ratings of 45-55Ra or about twice that of a flashlight reflector! note anodizing will dull even the best finish to about a 20-30Ra depending on thickness of layer.

As far as the silkscreening goes the Caswell manual has a great recipe for the dye, and the rest is trial an error. Not much information gets shared on this subject as that is what sets us apart from our competitors.

[Paintbalaguy]

I understand the risks and the corrosive properties of nitric acid, I need to know where to get it fast or I need advice on how to make aluminum part mirror finish without it becuase polishing wheels dont cut it. I need it soon, I want to do parts in a very glossy finish like the pros, agian I understand the properties, the fume creation, how vicious nitric acid is ect. Please help.

Also how would I go about silk screening aluminum?

Thanks,

Eric Laakmann