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Hard Anodizing

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  • #16
    Re: Hard Anodizing

    Yes US Military weapons systems (M4 M9, M16... etc.) are Type III anodized to the applicable Mil-Spec.

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    • #17
      Re: Hard Anodizing

      Hi,
      I have put up with a new plant of hard anodizing.
      Please can u guide me in how to get the best results for my anodizing.
      I am anodizing utensils but i am getting gray color anodized. I need jet black.
      please guide me on the bellow question: -

      1. What temperature shoult i anodize.
      2. What should be my acid mixture(and how pure should be my acid).
      3. What volts and amps should i anodize .
      4. What other chemicals can i us.
      5. How should i do the sealing.

      my tank size is:- length=13ft
      Width= 3ft
      Hight=3.5ft

      please guide me.
      thanking you
      manish

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      • #18
        Re: Hard Anodizing

        hmmm, I'm pretty sure that hard anodizing isn't going to come out jetblack. Hard anodizing is rarely dyed, usually only for color coding. You wont achieve a deep color like you would with type II anodizing. Also hard coat isn't sealed unless dye, because it softens the coating.
        Last edited by Z; 02-06-2008, 08:40 AM.
        http://zanodize.com

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        • #19
          Re: Hard Anodizing

          you will need black dye to get the black look you want.

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          • #20
            Re: Hard Anodizing

            I am looking into doing some type III Hard Anodizing to some aluminum rc parts.

            Do you guys have any pics of what the colors look like specifically?

            Does this Hard coat accurately make the aluminum itself harder? Or only just the surface?

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            • #21
              Re: Hard Anodizing

              Originally posted by neilfj View Post


              Ideally, Type-III requires that the temperature of the electrolyte be maintained between 37-40F for the entire time you are anodizing.
              Neil



              So are you saying you can get away with 37-40 F for type III? I always thought you needed the temperature around 32F?

              Is the reason being the 2:1 ratio? I also thought you didn't have to change the ratio.

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              • #22
                Re: Hard Anodizing

                Originally posted by new2metals View Post
                I am looking into doing some type III Hard Anodizing to some aluminum rc parts.

                Do you guys have any pics of what the colors look like specifically?

                Does this Hard coat accurately make the aluminum itself harder? Or only just the surface?
                I done type III anodizing when I worked in the field. The color is a very cool dark gray.


                I also am very sure that it just makes the surface harder. Also, the melting temperature is lower which makes welding more difficult but I have seen people weld it.

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                • #23
                  Re: Hard Anodizing

                  Newbie here. I am familiar with type III hard anodized and have run some small batches of type II up to 40 sq.in. but mostly smaller down to the 1-2" range. Using a cheap battery charger and have gotten good results. I want to try type III on some 2-3" parts so the amperage requirements are quite minimal, I estimate less than 1/2 A which is no problem, as I can get up to 10A out of the supply and up to about 25v using a 12v battery for a doubler. This I have experimented with. I have a large utility sink for a water bath and the tank which is a vertical tube sits in this with bubbler tubes in 2 corners of the bath and one in the bottom of the tube. I can get about 50 degree water out of the tap.

                  Is there any chance of success with this set-up using my existing type II electrolyte (2:1 sulphuric:distilled) or will I need ice jugs in the sink to chill it further and other changes?

                  Many thanks. Btw, the Caswell dyes work great.

                  Jim

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                  • #24
                    Re: Hard Anodizing

                    Some progress. I ran a sample overnight, 3 sq.in.50* decreasing to 45 by morning, battery acid/distilled h2o at 2:1, 500ma for about 12 hrs. This sample decreased in thickness 0.020" and developed a light gray slightly textured hard coat probably around 0.005" thick or better. Much tougher than bright dip but did not seem quite as hard as typeIII. Still it has the admirable quality of accepting dye so I will experiment further. Ran a second sample today at 40* after hooking up a small chiller (it needs reprogrammed before it will go any lower), 2.5A/17.5V, same size for 5 hours. Slightly different color, lost 0.011" of thickness, otherwise similar. That is as much current as I can get with this setup and I am not ready to hook up the TIG welder yet (380A/80V). Perhaps I have something in between though. I'll have to look.

                    If I were to guess I would say that this result is an intermediate between bright dip and typeIII. Or possibly a very thick typeII. Either way it does seem useful and I may use it for some barrel nuts holding down a fuel rail.

                    Jim

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                    • #25
                      Re: Hard Anodizing

                      if you are loosing 11 and 20 thou off surface dimensions and its taking dye, you are not type111 anodising IMOA just building up a thick layer of dissolution .
                      hard anodising is done with a weaker than lcd electrolyte and 40+ asf with temps around 3deg C
                      Last edited by spankey666; 11-15-2012, 06:04 PM.
                      "A stupid man's report of what a clever man says is never accurate because he unconsciously translates what he hears into something he can understand.
                      Custom Anodising

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                      • #26
                        Re: Hard Anodizing

                        So I'm just about there on the amperage and temp it sounds like. What acid concentration? Sounds like it needs more water.

                        Jim

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