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  • Masking questions

    O.K. SS, I got my power supply, ran my 1st test part, came out great!!
    So now I'm feeling cocky and I want to try to do 2 colors(splash), I was wondering about the rubber cement, how clean of a line will it give, is there something that will give clean lines and come off easy?
    Also,just so I am clear, you ano, then mask, let dry, then dye(darker colors 1st), then strip off the mask, and dye the next section(lighter color), is this right? All advice is welcome.
    Thanks
    Canute

  • #2
    Re: Masking questions

    Super. The PS make it a bit easier? I know it took away alot of headaches for me.

    Normally lighter colors are done first when doing coatings because the darker colors will cover the lighter colors. As on the sponge work. On this, I haven't done enough to say which way is best. Acidrain or one of the others will be able to tell you from first hand knowledge what worked for them.
    SS

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    • #3
      Re: Masking questions

      With masking, the first color is dyed, then the mask is applied, then the balance of the first color is removed with bleach, rinse, acid, rinse (repeat if necessary). Don't get the acid contaminated with bleach or vice-versa, or deadly gasses will be released that will literally kill you in a heart-beat.
      Once all of the unwanted dye is removed, go ahead and dye it the second color. Rubber cement makes a very fine line, and so does hot-glue. They are both a bit stringy, though, so be carefull with that.
      BTW, the reason for the double-dip to remove unwanted dye is because dipping in bleach works best for removing color, but will affect the next colors. Acid does not affect the next colors, but doesn't remove the dye very well. Heating to no more than 70F helps as well if it's cold where you are at. Just make sure the parts are rinsed well in seperate containers, and you'll be alright.
      I do things.

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      • #4
        Re: Masking questions

        so then once the first dye is in you do not seal yet, correct?
        -matt

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        • #5
          Re: Masking questions

          1.anno
          2.dye
          3.mask
          4.let mask dry good (unless sticker)
          5.dip in bleach
          6.rinse good with distilled water
          7.Dip in acid (like acidrain said)
          8.Wash again very good with distilled water
          9.dye 2nd color
          10.seal for a short time
          11.remove mask
          12.seal for rest of time
          13.Spray with WD-40

          I was thinking maybe run the part for 5 minutes or so after it has been masked and bleached to help the ano layer alittle more...Im not the best in this subject yet though....and will rubber cement dry under water?
          Last edited by destroyer125; 04-23-2006, 12:27 AM.
          www.125customs.com - Quality custom anodizing for simple and complicated jobs.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Masking questions

            You have it exactly right, except I didn't understand what you meant by run for 5min longer. Did you mean anodize more, or seal more? I wouldn't do either one. Do it exactly like you described in your steps.
            No, the rubber cement will not dry under water, but you can use a hair dryer to help it (just don't get it up in the 160F+ range.
            I do things.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Masking questions

              does this DAMN thing work??

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Masking questions

                Hi guys, thanks for the info. on 2 color.
                I am having problems, again. Heres whats going on:
                70 Degree temp.
                Ecthed parts lye for 3 min.s Parts began to bubble like "aklaseltzer in coca-cola" Removed parts and rinsed in distilled water
                Placed parts in acid solution, turned on power
                SA 23.385 IN sq
                Set amps to .73 as per 720 rule, parts bubbling like crazy
                Starting voltage was 5 volts, never got 11.25 volts as per 720 rule
                At 40 min.s voltage was 5.4 volts
                At 45 min.s voltage was 7.2 volts
                At 50 min.s - 7.7 volts
                At 58 min.s voltage shot up to 18.4 volts, amps dropped to .61
                At 1 hour 10 min.s part #2 is the only one still bubbling (rest stopped)
                At 1 hour 12 mins, Amps dropped to .13 - Volts stayed 18.4V
                Removed parts and rinsed.

                RESULTS - Part 1 & 3 Barely took color
                Part 2 came out a dark pinkish rose color w/ red small lines (Looks almost like cracks, but are not, just looks that way)
                Reran part no, 1, by itself, came out slightly darker, but not as dark as part no. 2
                any help would be apprieciated , Thanks
                Canute

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Masking questions

                  One of the things with a PS is it shows problems better. You lost connection. Your PS is 18V isn't it. With the numbers you gave, you lost connection when you only had a .4 mil coating.
                  SS

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                  • #10
                    Re: Masking questions

                    SS, yes, it is 18V.
                    I will do better, Thanks
                    Canute

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Masking questions

                      SS, if I want to add a alum. bar(across the top of the bucket) to wire parts to, do I have to include it in my SA calculations? Or is it only the SA in the solution I need? Thanks
                      Canute

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                      • #12
                        Re: Masking questions

                        only parts in the solution

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                        • #13
                          Re: Masking questions

                          Just like yoyoboy said. If it's not in the solution, then it's only passing the current on.
                          SS

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                          • #14
                            Re: Masking questions

                            Hi everyone, just got back from town, can't find rubber cement anywhere.
                            I was told by one of the clerks at the old time hardware(not a big chain) store that they can no longer get rubber cement!! Does anyone know if 100% silacone caulk will work? Any info would be a big help!
                            Thanks

                            Canute

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Masking questions

                              Originally posted by destroyer125
                              1.anno
                              2.dye
                              3.mask
                              4.let mask dry good (unless sticker)
                              5.dip in bleach
                              6.rinse good with distilled water
                              7.Dip in acid (like acidrain said)
                              8.Wash again very good with distilled water
                              9.dye 2nd color
                              10.seal for a short time
                              11.remove mask
                              12.seal for rest of time
                              13.Spray with WD-40

                              I was thinking maybe run the part for 5 minutes or so after it has been masked and bleached to help the ano layer alittle more...Im not the best in this subject yet though....and will rubber cement dry under water?
                              What flavor of acid are you dipping in after the bleach?

                              Comment

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