Anodizing Tolerences

[dropride]

i recently anodized some r/c helicopter pieces, the problem i have is that where the bearings fit into some of the pieces now have more play in them than before. is there any way to make sure this won't happen again or is it just a factor in reanodizing pieces? the bearings in these pieces need to be pretty secure.

[mcaswell]

If you anodize the parts longer, the thickness of the anodize layer will increase.

The anodize layer is formed at the rate of 0.0001" per 7 minutes.

[dropride]

can you anodize the parts for too long? i know in the manual it says if the parts are in too long it won't take the dye as well.

[mcaswell]

Sure you can. You need to use your judgement and experiment a little to get the right time for your application.

[mcaswell]

Use our new LCD Anodizing setup, for a more reliable way of controlling the film thickness.

[dropride]

is this the new process you've been posting about? and if so does that mean we would have to buy the new kit to find out the new process

[Tim Wiltse]

I wonder the same thing myself. I new "system" is not listed in the on line manual yet, which I think is wrong. It should of been fixed before they started to sell the LCD kits. I have also sent a message to tech support but have gotten no help yet after 3 DAYS!! Caswell's is the only place I buy supplies from and it seems like sometimes it's hard to get help.

Tim

[dropride]

have you gotten an answer yet tim? if not i guess we gotta wait for someone to buy the kit to find out the new process

[mcaswell]

Sorry about the delay folks. The new instructions are posted in the online manual.

You can convert to the new system with an existing set-up. It uses a much weaker concentration of acid, so you just need to dispose of your old solution and mix up new. The ratio is 3:1 distilled water:acid.

The new system uses a low and slow method. Instead of letting the process draw what it needs from the power supply, you add a rheostat (bulbs, rectifier, dimmer switch etc) to control the power much in the same way as plating. The system needs 30 milliamps per square inch area of your part. You anodize for 90 mins.

This has the advantage of NOT heating up your acid bath as well as giving you a consistent, easy to follow process. The reduced power means less heat in the bath, eliminating the need to cool the tank and eliminating problems with pore size caused by temperature fluctuations.

The weaker solution means less fumes and safer handling.

The results are a consistent film thickness and pore size, which of course means consistent dying results.

It's a greatly improved method.

[mcaswell]

Just an addition - these instructions are now available for free in the tech support section. You need the login name and password from an invoice of ours. Click the files link and look for LCD Anodizing Instructions.

[PeterBusch]

Is there any other way to get the instructions. I have not ordered anything yet but would like to learn more about it other then asking a million questions on the forum.

[bryan93644]

hi,
i might be missing the point, but i don't see why you would ever care about the color of threads, so why are you reanodizing them? couldn't you put a screw in, strip the part, and then reaonodize it? or os there a reason the treads themselves need to be reanodized in your application? has the old oxide layer been damaged in some way and need replaceing? thanks.