CopyCad Newb Question…

[Fmeroney]

Hello,
Newbie here, read through the manual and tried a few parts and have a couple questions that don’t seem to be addressed with the Copy CAD system.

1. The Plating solution is cloudy, many videos show solutions that are clear w/yellow orange tinge. Out of the bottle it was cloudy, it then will settle until the pump runs.

2. the Anodes turn black after a bit, should they be cleaned before/after use? If so, scotchbright?

3. I mixed the yellow chromate, 4oz with 2 gals of distilled water. This seems too thin?

4. should I use a muriatic or sulfuric dip before chromating? If so there seems to be conflicting processes?!

Thank you for the help!

[DCLXVI]

I’m just getting started also and have the same thoughts/issues. Good luck. It seems people are hesitant post on here.

[Fmeroney]

Thanks,
I will call Caswell if I don’t get any feedback.

I’m just getting started also and have the same thoughts/issues. Good luck. It seems people are hesitant post on here.

[FASTLIKEJUDY]

Greetings Fmeroney, I will respond where I have some experience:
1. I am not sure if your solution remains cloudy or it clears after about 1 hour of circulation. This response is consistent with my experience. It is initially cloudy then clear with a honey-tinge.
2. Yes the anodes turn black. At the end of the day I clean them lightly with a red Scotch-Brite pad, dry them, and store them in a Zip-Lock bag.
3. I am not sure about the chromate solution preparation volumes you list. Four ounces of chromate solution in 256 ounces (two gallons) of water seems thin but the most important thing is to follow the instructions on the chromate solution label verbatim. My last chromate batch is comprised of 400 ml distilled (DI) water with 100 ml of chromate solution. Again, follow the instructions provided by the chromate vendor.
4. Yes there are different instructions for post plating chromate covering. Here are the instructions I received in 2009:
a. Zinc plate the surface, the brightness of the final finish will be directly related to the brightness of the plated surface.
b. Cold water rinse (I use virgin DI water via a squirt bottle).
c. Immerse in 1% by volume of sulfuric or nitric acid for about 5 seconds. (I have used both with successful results. I have not used muriatic acid. I have also found that battery acid is about 37% by volume of sulfuric acid.)
d. Immerse in the blue chromate solution for the desired effect. (I typically immerse the hardware for about 45 seconds.)
e. Cold water rinse with virgin DI water then hot water rinse. (I do not hot water rinse and my cold water is room temperature.)
f. Air dry at 150F. (I use a hot air dryer from the 1970s.)

I hope this helps.

I am interested in other platers procedures.
Good luck.
KRR

[Fmeroney]

Greetings Fmeroney, I will respond where I have some experience:
1. I am not sure if your solution remains cloudy or it clears after about 1 hour of circulation. This response is consistent with my experience. It is initially cloudy then clear with a honey-tinge.
2. Yes the anodes turn black. At the end of the day I clean them lightly with a red Scotch-Brite pad, dry them, and store them in a Zip-Lock bag.
3. I am not sure about the chromate solution preparation volumes you list. Four ounces of chromate solution in 256 ounces (two gallons) of water seems thin but the most important thing is to follow the instructions on the chromate solution label verbatim. My last chromate batch is comprised of 400 ml distilled (DI) water with 100 ml of chromate solution. Again, follow the instructions provided by the chromate vendor.
4. Yes there are different instructions for post plating chromate covering. Here are the instructions I received in 2009:
a. Zinc plate the surface, the brightness of the final finish will be directly related to the brightness of the plated surface.
b. Cold water rinse (I use virgin DI water via a squirt bottle).
c. Immerse in 1% by volume of sulfuric or nitric acid for about 5 seconds. (I have used both with successful results. I have not used muriatic acid. I have also found that battery acid is about 37% by volume of sulfuric acid.)
d. Immerse in the blue chromate solution for the desired effect. (I typically immerse the hardware for about 45 seconds.)
e. Cold water rinse with virgin DI water then hot water rinse. (I do not hot water rinse and my cold water is room temperature.)
f. Air dry at 150F. (I use a hot air dryer from the 1970s.)

I hope this helps.

I am interested in other platers procedures.
Good luck.
KRR

Thank you, very helpful.
On point 1, the solution never goes clear/yellow, it stays cloudy. However tonight i will run it for a few hours to see what happens. Everything else seems on par!

[stevenmurphy]

watching as I bought the pickle solution as an alternative to caustic acids to etch before chromate.

[Boonies]

Thank you, very helpful.
On point 1, the solution never goes clear/yellow, it stays cloudy. However tonight i will run it for a few hours to see what happens. Everything else seems on par!

Interested to know how you made out with the cloudy solution.

I have the same experience. Mixed per Caswell instructions and the solution has been cloudy from the start and has never cleared up.

I have read that one can watch the bubbles coming off of the material being plated, but in my case I cannot see the parts that are suspended in the plating solution.

My results using yellow chromate have been mixed. One item plated with a bright finish, but since then most results are darker that I would expect.