No announcement yet.

Ford phosphate and oil re-creation

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ford phosphate and oil re-creation

    Anyone ever successfully copy ford's phosphate and oil finish? The original process we used was to plate the parts in copy cad, then dip them for a few seconds in black oxide. the finish turned out great, however it did not seem to last. After a few months, spotty rust appeared on the pieces. I do not know if the corrosion was caused by the process, or by lack of coverage from the cadmium. Anyway, if anyone has ever done this, or knows whether or not the black oxide is what caused the corrosion, please respond, I would like to get a definite answer before going any further. Thanks

  • #2
    Here is some info on black oxide from several sources:

    Subject: FW: black oxide

    The black finish on 50-60's Ford fasteners is S-2, Phosphate and oil. It is a

    little more gray than black oxide. It can be produced by soaking fasteners in

    OSPHO for about twenty minutes and then spraying W-40 or the like on them.

    Ospho is a commercial solution of phosphoric acid available at such places as

    Ace Hardware Stores. Eastwood also sells a solution that can be used.

    Here is another way to do this and not have a problem... Wire wheel parts/nuts/bolts....mother-in- law........drop them into the acid used to clean bricks and cement...(available at any hardware store in gallons for pennies...muriatic)...take them out after you swish them around for a minute or so... and drop them into clean water...USE A HOT DOG TONGS..the acid will burn you...After you swish them around in the acid..drop them right into the heated parkerizing solution...after they are colored...about 8 to 10 minutes....dry them good...then spray with the WD40...You now have a properly "phosphated" piece...Do not get ouil on the parts between the acid and the chemical will get streaks and stains on the parts.. If you need the phone number of the best chemical on earth for this..let me know...I have been using it since the 50's...even while in the Military to do our weapons..

    It is not a "cold" application..nor is it a paint. Paint would come right

    off when you put the bolt on with a wrench...To apply the chemical requires about 185 degrees in a very friendly chemical.. It will

    not burn your skin..nor will it ruin your day ...BUT..if you get it on the

    wife's stove top..then all bets are off..SHE will ruin your day for sure. It

    stains stove tops...and can not be cleaned up. Best way to use it is outside

    on a barbie or a camp stove... Parts can be colored in a coffee can...and it

    is very simple...

    The US Military has used it in 2 main colors..BLACK and GRAY since 1918 for

    "parkerizing" weapons. It helps prevent applies a gray ZINC

    coating to steel...or in the case of the is MANGANESE..

    I do at least 2 batches of parkerizing a week...Finished products look

    better than new..No..I only do for me..and locals...

    > Very simple..You have to buy a quart of the chemical from Vern Owens down
    ? south. 864-246-3836

    ? You put an ounce or 2 in the

    > can...get it to the 185 degrees and drop in the parts..

    > First though..they must be "wire wheeled"..and cleaned real good... I use

    > sand blaster and go right to the chemical.. But, the wire wheeling and

    > rinsing works fine..


    • #3
      Does anyone know what chemical is being referred to in the above post. I have gotten a park tank, and am ready to go, but don't have a solution to use yet. I have seen some of the various chemicals on the market, but am curious what is being referred to here. If anyone could help I would be greatly appreciative!


      • #4
        you can buy hot phosphating chemicals at I have used their products and they work good. You will need the gray phosphating chemicals and also the penetrating oil/rust preventative post dip. Keep in mind that phosphating does not offer much (any) rust protection; the rust protection is in the post dip.


        • #5
          Re: Ford phosphate and oil re-creation

          You can use a home brewed recipe and find sources of cheap chemicals. Purity,prep, and temperature control are the keys to a good finish.

          The phosphoric acid (85%) is the toughest to get but can be found at chemical supply houses. The problem is that it is often sold in 55 gal drums. One gallon quantities are available but you have to check online. I live on the east coast and found a gallon of USP 85% for $20 - with $25 shipping but it was worth it.

          The OSPHO is an okay substitute.

          Manganese dioxide and zinc oxide are available for dark gray and gray Parkerizing from potter's supply stores. Here in town I got five pounds of each for under $10 each. Potter's use them for glazes.

          I've refinished several Garands using the WWII type Zinc Parkerizing with good results. I've also used the darker Manganese process on post-WWII long guns with equally good results.

          The rough recipe is 2 oz of 85% phosphoric and 2 oz of either MnO2 or ZnO per gallon of water.

          Good luck.