Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Gold Plated Rose

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Unix3000
    replied
    Yeah, it basicly fell apart after 3 hours of plating. Odd thing was when I took some steelwool to the crumbled parts, it looked like there was plate under the paint... I thought that was odd.



    Trying again with three wires at 600mA.

    Im am starting to run out of paint, roses and patence.

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    It is possible that eventually you'll accumulate enough ions on the surface of the paint to cause an acceleration of the plating. But it's also possible that after a certain time the paint will be slowly broken down by the acid solution. So it's a tough balance. It's worth a try I would imagine.

    My rule of thumb is if it hasn't plated after an hour, you should try another approach.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    I was wondering, does the plate itself add to the conductiveness of the item being plated? If so, then as they plate "grows" it will reach some of the less conductive parts.

    what if I just leave it in the tank for 4 hours or so?

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    You may need to mesh it. For example, imagine making a hypothetical box to accommodate the rose out of chicken wire. Lay the rose in the box and run thin wires to it every inch or so along its length. If the wires are thin enough you might even thread them thru the rose with a fine needle then tie them to the chicken wire box. A #34 wire would allow you to "sew" through and around the rose using a thin sewing needle.

    Of course you probably can't use chicken wire since it will likely be zinc plated and you NEVER want to put zinc into the nickel tank. But if you could come close to something like this made up of copper wire, you'd have it.

    There is no conductive paint that will have the conductivity of metal itself, so we have to make do.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    Ok, I attacked another wire to the stem and upped the amparage to 600mA

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    I suspect that the Silvaspray is not conductive enough, and the rose is a complex enough form that by the time you get to the bud there is too much electrical resistance. You might want to "tap into" the rose in multiple locations with some real thin wire. Some bare copper #24-28 gauge wire meshed around the rose in multiple locations would help you I would bet.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    Im working with roses now, the cigars worked fine. I attached a wire to the bottem of the stem and has been in the tank for about 45 minutes and I only see plating at the stem, nothing at the bud. any ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    Does it take the Silvaspray with it? If so, it could be a bonding issue between the silvaspray and substrate. It could also be that the cigar is so soft. Perhaps two coats of epoxy before the Silvaspray would help make it a little more rigid.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    Ok, ran into my first problem with doing the nickel plate first. The nickel is to brittle and cracks off.

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    My last cigar had white spots on it that smelt like chlorine.

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    Some folks here claim to have had success with tap water. Here in Texas we have so much lime in the water that a film can be seen floating on top if you boil it enough. While distilled is not perfect, it is infinitely better than the tap water here. Since this is geographically dependent, and distilled water is cheap (for small tank setups), it's always better safe than sorry. When I am plating heavily, every 2 weeks I spend $15 for distilled water. Not bad.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    I think I just found out what happens when you dont wash the item with distiled water

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    Once you have a solid coat of nickel you can plate over with copper. Get enough on there to buff it (probably a few hours of plating with a very light sanding between 1 hour coats). then buff lightly. After that do your final nickel right before you gold plate. You'll be in business.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:


  • Unix3000
    replied
    It WORKED! I went for the nickel bath first. Some of the paint came off, but i did a lite coat of silvraspray and did a replate and came out fine.

    Problem is, its only shiny on high stops.

    Leave a comment:


  • dadkar2
    replied
    I concur with your experience with the copper. I'm nearly 100% convinced that these paints don't hold up in solutions at either end of the pH scale. The alkaline copper (flash copper) at a pH of 10 breaks down the Silvaspray paint, and the acid copper (ver low pH--well under 1.0) does the same thing. But the nickel, at a pH of 4, is much gentler on it.

    Not sure about the wrinkling--whether it is due to expansion and contraction, or some other effect. A controlled experiment could help decode that mystery.

    Ken

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X