What happened to all the platers out thier, this is turning into a powder coating forum, I know better on the plating, somebody has to have a question or problem...
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All Platers::::::
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Re: All Platers::::::
Your right there are not as many questions about plating as there was a year ago .
At the same time I hade three people from this area at my shop in the last 2 weeks with different problems in plating with small kits and I helped them right hereJim Eaton
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Re: All Platers::::::
Yea I guess I need to ask them more questions....
Have you had any dealings with magnesium parts, I had a sport bike in my shop last week and I coudn't get the side covers to plate and they were mag. I tried the zicate-flash copper, but nothing...
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Re: All Platers::::::
You want questions. I got questions. I have some aluminum parts to strip chrome off and anodize. A little electricity and the chrome came off without to much trouble leaving a poor copper coat. I bead blasted them and the majority of copper came off but after etching I can see where it still has spots of copper where it stuck better than the rest of the coat did. I've repeated the bead/etch 3 times now and each time get a part or 2 that is clean enough to proceed to anodize. With your plating knowledge can you tell me an easier way to remove the copper coat or do I just keep repeating. TIA. SS
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Re: All Platers::::::
The best stripper for nickle and copper only on aluminum is NITRIC ACID, which is a bath that you just let the part soak for a few minutes and the acid eats all the nickle and copper leaving the aluminum part back to bair aluminum. If you don't want to purchace the acid I will be glad to strip the parts for you. I will be away from the computer untill friday, so if you want to call me you can, (601)549-6914 Im working nights and tonight is my last night.
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Re: All Platers::::::
If I rememeber right its half and half (H20/Acid).
Man its a life saver I like it cause you don't have to do anything, strip the chrome and then drop it in the bath.
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Re: All Platers::::::
Hey ss and Fly
Now remember this is with out seeing the wheels in question
but im thinking that the wheels are triple plated so it is quite possible you haven’t removed all the nickel
but the best way is just to keep doing what you are doing . I have had this same problem with some door handle im prepping spots of copper left even after blasting next step sanding .
I hope this helps if not give me a ring or drop an e-mail with your number and we will see if we cant work it out [email protected] or 479-639-2575.
Muriatic acid also makes a great stripper and is available at most hardware or pool supply
instructions for mixing are on page’s 34 and 35 in the manual
And fly I don’t have any experience in plating on to mag but I do have a friend that might ill see if I can
get some info for youLast edited by jimcarry; 01-31-2006, 08:23 AM.Jim Eaton
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Re: All Platers::::::
Ok, this is great...a topic about questions with a theme about stripping...just what i was curious about. My plating operation has been on hold for a while (mostly due to the holidays, but also because of stripping woes) I received a bunch of pieces to replate that have been triple chrome plated. I don't have the power requirements to electrically strip the chrome, and I didn't want to get any more chemicals at the time, so i purchased a sandblaster from here and a compressor. So...things haven't exactly worked out right from that end, and while I'm waiting for that to be remedied, I read a thread about stripping with muratic acid/water mix, which has been repeated here, so my questions are...do i have to heat it up? how long do i leave it in there? do i hang it, or just drop it in and get my neighbor's kid to pull it out? Any other suggestions? I don't know why, but this has been a big stumbling block for me. Thanks in advance.
Woody
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Re: All Platers::::::
To remove Chrome and Rust
first you will need a tank large enough to hold the part a piece of stainless steel size depends on the part you are de plating a power source battery charger will work
there are different type of Acid Pickles they are explained in greater detail on pages 34 35 and 36
of the Caswells Plating Manual
WARNING ! Never pour water into Acid always pour acid into water
Pickle 1 used for mild etching before plating
to make this solution
20 parts fresh water to 1 part muriatic Acid for etching soak part for 1 to 15 minn 1 hour will remove rust from most steel
Pickle 2 also rust remover and de- plater
to make
2 parts fresh water 1 part muriatic acid
to remove Chrome hook you positive lead to you part and your negative lead to the stainless
adjust your power to 1 amp per sq inch de-plating should be complete in approx 15 to 20 minn
DO NOT use this method on Pot metals or aluminum !!!!
Caswell?s recomend?s using Anodize & Chrome Stripper to remove chrome plate
this system is less harmful to the base metal .Jim Eaton
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Re: All Platers::::::
Originally posted by dwoodruffI am looking specifically for non-powered ways of doing this... all i have for power is a 3amp rectifier. So i am looking for ways of doing it with just the chemicals. Thanks.
with power is just faster refer to page 34-36 in your plating manualJim Eaton
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Re: All Platers::::::
I talked with Mike about this recently Caswell?s started sending there plating video
out with there plating kits I believe this has helped considerably also the mods and plater?s
on this site are doing a great job of answering the questionsJim Eaton
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Re: All Platers::::::
Hey Jimcarry, the nitric acid will eat ALL the nickle and copper off of aluminum, all you have to do is strip the chrome first, and the part is just about ready to replate if the part does not have pits. It doesn't matter if its tripple plated or not, as long as the chrome is stripped off. I like the nitric bath, it sure beats grinding or blasting the part and then polishing it again.
Originally posted by jimcarryHey ss and Fly
Now remember this is with out seeing the wheels in question
but im thinking that the wheels are triple plated so it is quite possible you haven?t removed all the nickel
but the best way is just to keep doing what you are doing . I have had this same problem with some door handle im prepping spots of copper left even after blasting next step sanding .
I hope this helps if not give me a ring or drop an e-mail with your number and we will see if we cant work it out [email protected] or 479-639-2575.
Muriatic acid also makes a great stripper and is available at most hardware or pool supply
instructions for mixing are on page?s 34 and 35 in the manual
And fly I don?t have any experience in plating on to mag but I do have a friend that might ill see if I can
get some info for you
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