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Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

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  • Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

    Hi,

    This is my first post, so let me introduce myself. I'm Blake from Georgia. I've been lurking, reading, and experimenting for a little while now. Thanks to all you guys who have been so generous with your experiences and opinions, and to Caswell for hosting the forum.

    I've had some success with basic aluminum polishing, so now I want to get down to business. I'm restoring a 1969 Honda CB750 and I want to get the aluminum engine covers as close to factory spec as possible. At that time Honda was producing more bikes in a month than most manufactures were producing in a year. So a very basic satin / brushed finished was used. The finishers didn't even knock off all the casting marks or bother to get in the crevices or bolt recesses. They just hit the visible areas with some type of abrasive tool and then clear coated the piece. But they were working with a freshly cast part, so the finish was nice none the less. Below is a picture of a perfect example of a CB750 rear wheel. You can see the brushed finish marks running in different directions on different areas and the "bumpy" rough cast areas as well. Even though it was a quick process, the piece came out nice and bright. Fast forward to today, I want to achieve the same finish, but I now have to deal with 40 years of oxidation and corrosion in every nook and cranny. I know it can be done because I’ve seen other very nicely restored bikes. The key is to not “over restore”. My main goals are to do it right and to do it myself. If any of you pros out there would share how you would approach this project if it were brought to your shop, I would greatly appreciate it.

    Tools that I have readily available are:
    1 hp, 1800 rpm buffer w/pedestal
    Expander wheel with 3M Trizact belts of various grits
    Sisal, Spiral Sewn, and Loose buffs, 10" & 12"
    Emory, Tripoli, and White compounds
    Large ultrasonic cleaner w/ Bransonic buffing compound removal solution
    ?” die grinder

    I’m open to buying new tools or supplies to do the job right, so let the suggestions fly.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by blake255; 11-20-2009, 03:02 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

    That's really close to what 400 grit greasless compound will give you. Another plus of using that is that there's no cleaning necessary afterwards. Ohh yeah forgot - Welcome to the group!

    -Jimmy.
    James Bateman

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

      yes i agree , it looks close to 400 greaseless
      you could also get similar results with scotch brite belts, the blue or black belts if available in the sizes for your expander wheel
      if the parts are in bad shape i would sand down the part with coarser grit abrasives first then glass bead the the whole part to get a clean blasted profile in the areas that you don t want the brushed finish then go over the part with greaseless or scotchbrite belt , clean with hot water ans soap
      dry final clean with alcool or acetone then clear coat
      http://www.peintureenpoudrepb.com
      http://www.polissagepb.com
      http://www.powdercoatpb.com
      baz

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

        I knew you guys would have some good ideas. I like the idea of a 400 greasless if paired up with a loose wheel. The valve cover has a lot of contures compared to the hub. I was also considering experimenting with a scotch bright wheel, so I will probably go ahead and do that now. I was glad to see that Baz addressed glass beading because it was actually the first thing I thought of to bring the part back to a "base" finish. I used an 80 grit glass bead and thought that the finish looked a little rough. Maybe it was too much preasure, or maybe I should use a finer grit. I also experimented with Armex coarse blasting soda as well, but not really happy with that either. Of course, the blasted texture may even out when I clear it with VHT. What do you think? Thanks Jimmy, Baz

        Blake

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

          Originally posted by blake255 View Post
          I'm restoring a 1969 Honda CB750
          Blake;
          Wow! a 1969 Honda CB-750-4.. I worked on these bikes when new! (worked at a Honda/Bultaco Dealership back then.. I had a '50 Harley "EL" V-Twin )
          Well, you made me feel VERY old!
          Best of luck with your restoration.
          Charles

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

            Charles,

            Thanks for the post. You should head over to forums.sohc4.com. There are a few thousand of us Honda inline four nuts over there. You may just catch the fever again.

            Baz,

            You’re a genius. I was casually re-reading your post when it struck me that I didn't catch what you were actually telling me.

            sand down the part with coarser grit abrasives first then glass bead
            The first thing I did when I started this project was grab some old parts and bead blast them. I was surprised how they maintained that old dull and stained tone. I was expecting something much brighter. That's why I wrote that I wasn't very happy with it in my last post. I guess a more experienced guy would have known this. But on re-reading your advice, I went to the garage, grabbed a part and sanded it on the expander wheel leaving an area of each grit level exposed. Then I glass beaded it. It had that bright and even tone I was after. Now I see that the glass beading didn't remove enough of the oxidized metal.

            So now the eternal question, cartridge rolls or felt bobs with glue & grit kit to get into the recesses with my die grinder?

            Blake
            Last edited by blake255; 11-22-2009, 10:07 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

              Originally posted by blake255 View Post
              Charles,

              Thanks for the post. You should head over to forums.sohc4.com. There are a few thousand of us Honda inline four nuts over there. You may just catch the fever again.

              Blake
              Blake;
              I'm afraid that "catching the fever" is WAY out of the question..
              I raced motorcycles for ten years, three as an AMA "Class C" Pro (Flat-Track, RoadRacing, TT Scrambles, etc.) and have the broken bones (including a Conpacted C-4 & Fractured C-5 acquired June 13, 1973), arthritis, etc. to prove it.
              I still have my Z-50 Mini-Trail "Pit Bike", have acquired all the parts necessary to rebuild the engine, new tires, etc. and THAT will be the extent on my two-wheeling at this stage in my life.
              But thanks for the "offer"
              Charles

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                Originally posted by blake255 View Post
                Charles,

                Thanks for the post. You should head over to forums.sohc4.com. There are a few thousand of us Honda inline four nuts over there. You may just catch the fever again.

                Baz,

                You?re a genius. I was casually re-reading your post when it struck me that I didn't catch what you were actually telling me.



                The first thing I did when I started this project was grab some old parts and bead blast them. I was surprised how they maintained that old dull and stained tone. I was expecting something much brighter. That's why I wrote that I wasn't very happy with it in my last post. I guess a more experienced guy would have known this. But on re-reading your advice, I went to the garage, grabbed a part and sanded it on the expander wheel leaving an area of each grit level exposed. Then I glass beaded it. It had that bright and even tone I was after. Now I see that the glass beading didn't remove enough of the oxidized metal.

                So now the eternal question, cartridge rolls or felt bobs with glue & grit kit to get into the recesses with my die grinder?

                Blake
                glad i could help but hey i m no genius , it is just that i have been there before you .
                for the eternal question , i prefer cartridge roll , i never really had good success with feltbobs .
                http://www.peintureenpoudrepb.com
                http://www.polissagepb.com
                http://www.powdercoatpb.com
                baz

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                  Ditto that. I've got a gallon of 320 grit adhesive compound, I use it once in a while on q-tips for really tight radii. Maybe it's just me but the most part it just makes a cloud of dust when I use it. In addition to cartridge rolls, dremel sized sanding drums can be found in a huge variety of grits through lapidary suppliers.
                  I keep a can of wd-40 on hand while sanding, seems to help it "cut" rather than just smear the aluminum, and the paper lasts longer.

                  -Jimmy.


                  Originally posted by baz View Post
                  glad i could help but hey i m no genius , it is just that i have been there before you .
                  for the eternal question , i prefer cartridge roll , i never really had good success with feltbobs .
                  James Bateman

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                    Originally posted by woodjames View Post
                    Ditto that. I've got a gallon of 320 grit adhesive compound, I use it once in a while on q-tips for really tight radii. Maybe it's just me but the most part it just makes a cloud of dust when I use it. In addition to cartridge rolls, dremel sized sanding drums can be found in a huge variety of grits through lapidary suppliers.
                    I keep a can of wd-40 on hand while sanding, seems to help it "cut" rather than just smear the aluminum, and the paper lasts longer.

                    -Jimmy.
                    never tried with the wd40 , something new to try this week . i have a set of old shovel hd heads to do complete so plenty of areas to try new stuff
                    thanks
                    http://www.peintureenpoudrepb.com
                    http://www.polissagepb.com
                    http://www.powdercoatpb.com
                    baz

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                      Thanks Jimmy, Baz,

                      I ordered some supplies today. Maybe the guy in brown will smile on me and get my stuff here for the long weekend.

                      I like the WD-40 tip. I'm gonna give that one a shot.

                      Blake

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                        Glad to see you restoring it the right way. I plated a bunch of parts a while back for a chopper cb, as if there aren't enough of those around.

                        I've got a knife sander, usually use 600 grit belts on it. I use the same gloves for buffing and sanding, and noticed that when the glove touched the sanding belt (and deposited a little bit of grease from the buffing compound), the finish was leaps and bounds better. That evolved into wd-40. Makes a tremendous difference, just wear a bib or and apron, as the wd gets everytwhere. Good luck!

                        -Jimmy
                        Last edited by woodjames; 11-24-2009, 07:45 PM.
                        James Bateman

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                          I have a quart of the 240 grit, didn't get it from Caswell but it's the same brand, I absolutely LOVE it. When I have to remove serious metal I coat 3 or 4 buffs (6" or 8"depending) with it, let it sit over night and go to town, sparks everywhere but a much nicer finish than I have ever been able to get with sanding drums or cartridge rolls. Let me know if you want me to send you a buff coated with the stuff for you to try out, use it and send me the buff back when you are done.

                          Originally posted by woodjames View Post
                          Ditto that. I've got a gallon of 320 grit adhesive compound, I use it once in a while on q-tips for really tight radii. Maybe it's just me but the most part it just makes a cloud of dust when I use it. In addition to cartridge rolls, dremel sized sanding drums can be found in a huge variety of grits through lapidary suppliers.
                          I keep a can of wd-40 on hand while sanding, seems to help it "cut" rather than just smear the aluminum, and the paper lasts longer.

                          -Jimmy.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                            Brintiff,

                            Wow, thanks. That is very generous of you. I actually ordered the greaseless compound kit, enough 6" buffs and felt bobs for each, as well as a nice selection of cartridge rolls. That way I can try everything and see what works best. Hopefully it will all be here Friday. It was a little expensive to go all out, but I'm committed to learning how to polish correctly. The only way to go from Total Nube to Zen Polishing Master is by experience (and haunting this site), and I’m trying to get there as fast as I can.

                            Blake

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Aluminum Restoration for 1969 Honda CB750

                              I'll have to try the grit in a can on something larger than a q-tip, thanks too Brintiff.

                              As far as the greasless goes, when that stuff dries out it's useless. That being said, storage is key. Try to unroll the plastic the best you can, so you can seal it back up afterwards. I store mine in a ziplock bag with a wet rag tossed in there, and store it in the fridge. Also, apply it to a spinning wheel while the machine has just been turned off, and use it like a brake for the wheel, it'll keep it from flinging the stuff all over the place.

                              Good luck grasshopper.

                              Originally posted by blake255 View Post
                              Brintiff,

                              Wow, thanks. That is very generous of you. I actually ordered the greaseless compound kit, enough 6" buffs and felt bobs for each, as well as a nice selection of cartridge rolls. That way I can try everything and see what works best. Hopefully it will all be here Friday. It was a little expensive to go all out, but I'm committed to learning how to polish correctly. The only way to go from Total Nube to Zen Polishing Master is by experience (and haunting this site), and I?m trying to get there as fast as I can.

                              Blake
                              James Bateman

                              Comment

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