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pushing compound about on aluminium

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  • PULIDOS
    replied
    Re: pushing compound about on aluminium

    Originally posted by jrow View Post
    What! you guys can't start a new thread? This one is S I X years old??
    .....................must've polished it to dust by now...............

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  • jrow
    replied
    Re: pushing compound about on aluminium

    What! you guys can't start a new thread? This one is S I X years old??

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  • Rasper
    replied
    Re: pushing compound about on aluminium

    Try using less compound. I never push compound around on a piece. If I do I am using to much of it. There seems to come a point where more compound acts as a lubricant rather than as an abrasive. I find that using too little is better than using too much.

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  • tat2busa
    replied
    Re: pushing compound about on aluminium

    Originally posted by tomg552001 View Post
    Yep, very very slow forum.....6 months ago, itd be weeks inbetween posts! Do you have a digital camera? Snap some pics of the problem, it might help more people to chime in.
    this is what i get after polishing it looks good looking at it but from the side it is hazy look at the pic's
    Attached Files

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  • chassisboy
    replied
    I do not wipe the part, I spray it down with the brake cleaner starting at the top and working towards the bottom. I then let the solvent flash off. If necessary I use a microfiber cloth to remove any residue.

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  • whistule
    replied
    Chassisboy, what do you do to actually clean it off? I have used some products which dissolve the compound when you rub it with a cloth but the as the compound comes off onto the cloth it scratches as you wipe - spoiling the mirror polish.

    tomg, workshop still not up and running but hopefully soon!

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  • chassisboy
    replied
    I just finished buffing out an old Moroso aluminum water pump. I have found that the best way to remove compound residue is with Wurth Brake & Parts Cleaner. This product is alcohol based and does not contain acetone, toluene or any of the other nasty toxic waste usually found in brake clean. If Caswell is interested in adding it to their line I will get them the info!

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  • whistule
    replied
    Yeh I'll definitely do that. I'm just in the middle of moving the workshop so it might take me a wee while to get it together......

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  • tomg552001
    replied
    Yep, very very slow forum.....6 months ago, itd be weeks inbetween posts! Do you have a digital camera? Snap some pics of the problem, it might help more people to chime in.

    Leave a comment:


  • whistule
    replied
    Yeh, it is renowned as 'black art'. It's funny that we are on a polishing forum but few of us are actually talking about the polishing itself more about products - I guess it's difficult to describe and actually what you want is for the polishing wizard to pop up and show you how it's done! Thanks for the tips Tom.

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  • tomg552001
    replied
    I use a heavy duty buffer, but i sometimes do find it helpfull to blast the part with the torch to get it super hot, and remove the excess. This isnt as much with the bench buffer, but more with felt bobs and smaller wheels etc. Another important part of polishing, is like you said the strokes. Use a heavy pressure with the direction of the wheel to remove excess and really color, than use less pressure with the wheel to even out the finish. Like i've said, i think some cloudiness is expected, and ive learned to deal with it. Also make sure you use even, slow strokes to allow the wheel time to cut, color, and remove the excess. Polishing is purely experience, as you get more into it you'll pick up little things that work for you. Good luck!

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  • whistule
    replied
    Now I've recovered from the loss I can think straight again.

    Tom, Re: propane torch....I would have thought you'd move to a bigger mop / more powerful buffer to get the heat by friction? My thinking is that they've been polishing since way back when factory heating was pretty basic so the compounds really should be able to work with the friction of the wheel alone. What do you think ??

    How do you clean the polishing compound off the part? As I am getting more experienced at this I realise you can minimise the compound residue by getting the wheel in the right 'nick' and getting the strokes right but I can never get it completely clean. I've tried loads of things. Touching the part with a cleaning cloth always leaves scratches because as you clean the part off the compound takes to the cloth and scratches as you wipe.

    The other ways I can see are steam cleaning(of which I know little), a dishwasher or an ultrasonic cleaner. I tried out a dishwasher but just with 'dishwasher' solution and it didnae work. Thinking about the expense of big ultrasonic cleaners I bought a wee dinky one and tried dipping just a bit of my parts in - first in meths with little result and then in SD-Klene 416(one of of caswells degreasers) and the compound came off fantastically. I am wondering if a proper degreaser in a dishwasher would work or if I need to fork out the coin for a big enough ultrasonic machine.

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  • whistule
    replied
    Only trouble with that is you need some sun. You got any 'sun' for sale caswell?

    Thanks for those ideas.

    I've been polishing and anodising all day and it's think it's fair to say it's driving me absolutely mad. Two weeks making up ten parts and I have just ruined 2 of them with the anodising....

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  • tomg552001
    replied
    Whistule, you could always take some nails and hammer them through a board to make your own rake. It'll be much stronger, and will probally clean the part a little better than a saw blade. When i do my polishing, especially on more dense peices, i always keep a hand held propane torch handy, that way i can heat up parts slightly so they take compound better and clean up easiar. I have also found that, a certain amount of cloudiness is expected with polishing aluminum. From examining other parts, even polished SS, it seems that from certain angles, there is still a slight haze. My personal test is bringing it outside in the sun, if you can see a haze, than it needs more time on the buffer. Good luck!

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  • whistule
    replied
    I noticed if you've got a clean wheel it will take the compound off in no time at all - of course the wheel will only stay clean for so long.....dam! Good idea with the test - unfortunately it seams to be cold all the time at the moment over here! Marsfroggie mentioned a while back that heating up the compounds beforehand helps so I've been trying that and it certainly does make a difference. Do you find the new A14 and A15 compounds are better than standard compounds?

    I wonder if its not about getting things just right i.e. raking, compound application, polishing times, s.f/min etc. When you say '6K' what wheel diameter is that on? How often/long do you rake and how deep are the teeth? I'm running at about 6900 surface ft per minute and raking as hard as I possibly can to get the wheel to 'fluff up'. I've found the 'saw blade' rake I am using is not great to honest - the points blunt down too quickly and bend.

    The whole spray/immerse and clean thing is obviously a well discussed question on this forum. Any paper towels I have touched the aluminium with have scratched it and become more obvious with anodising. I'm just waiting for an ultrasonic cleaner (all-be-it not big enough to do my parts all at once) but it will be interesting to see how good it is at removing compound - any recommendations for cleaning solution to run in it would be most welcome.

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