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**tomg552001** · 12-10-2003, 12:02 PM

Stainless steel is a PAIN to polish, or so it seems from what i have experienced. Are you using the green stainless steel compound? If its a lower grade of stainless, the striations (sp?) will show in the metal no matter what, which is why i think stainless is for the most part electro polished. I would try using a very light hand when sanding as not to cause any really deep scratches, than go right to the green compound for a while and really work it. I do not have much experience with stainless, but hopefully someone else can chime in.

**Powerpac** · 12-12-2003, 12:55 AM

Stainless steel scratches and polishing

I have been polishing stainless for years part time on classic car stainless trim. Now that I have retired, I have been taking on more work but I am also having a problem with getting the fine sanding scratches out of stainless steel trim. Occasionally there is also a BLUSH that shows up, especially on the ends and edges of the pieces after I start to polish them. I use a commercial power sander and Formax 26 on aluminum oxide belts when sanding. I also hand sand the deep scratches starting with 240 on up to 1200 before buffing. After sanding I buff with a sizal wheel with emory and then a cotton spiral sewn with emory to get the shine and remove all visable scratches. On the color buff I have had no luck with the green stainless rouge so I use the white rouge. On some pieces I still see fine scratches and BLUSH on the ends and along the edges. This doesn't show up until the final buff and then I have to start over because my customers are usually looking for show quality restored stainless. HELP PLEASE HELP!!!!! If anyone has any suggestions, I have open ears.

**tomg552001** · 12-12-2003, 01:23 AM

Stainless is usually a metal that does not deteriorate and pit, so i think you are sanding way too much. If its stainless trim, and not plated etc, you should not have to sand much at all unless there is a existing deep scratch. If i were you, i would sand with a light hand with say a 600 grit than go to sisal wheel with emory and a white on a loose or canton flannel. I know what you guys are experiencing, and i had the same problem. I sanded with too heavy of a hand and with to course of a grit and when i finished polishing you would see the scratches. It dosn't hurt to give this a try, even on a test area. Good luck.

**polishguy727** · 12-12-2003, 10:15 AM

STAINLESS STEEL SCRATCHES

I HAVE FOUND THAT USING A GREEN 10 INCH AIR WAY WITH THE GREEN ROUGE FOLLOWED BY USING WHITE ROUGE ON GREEN AIR WAY WORKS WONDERS BEFORE WHITE ON WHITE.GIVE IT A TRY.I SWEAR BY IT.

**spirit** · 12-23-2003, 09:04 AM

Alternative

Has anyone tried working with non-woven abrasive wheels before buffing?

**red1966malibu** · 01-08-2004, 02:13 PM

Scratch Removal

I refinish stainless moldings for cars and have found the following
technique to work for me. I sand the flat trim with an expand-a-wheel
as you have described. I use 700 and then the 1200 grit 3M disks,
avoid the 400 disks if possible (leaves heavy scratches).I have found that a treated sisal wheel and an aggressive emery compound will save you alot of time removing the sanding scratches. I follow with an ventilated wheel with the green compound. If you desire you can follow with loose wheel and white rogue. I have found this technique to work very well, but it is time consuming. The treated sisal buffs are available though Matchless, Caswell should have a similiar product.

**customandsound** · 01-12-2004, 08:42 PM

i had the same problem with stainless... i ended up going to the dealer and getting a new part .... but with older cars .. i have seen guys light wetsand them with 2500 grit and polish with a super fine polish it looked ok but not the best

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Stainless steel Scratches

Stainless steel Scratches

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