lots of questions, polishing motorcycle frame

[nopulse95]

This is my first post, I have spent two weeks reading through about every post that has to do with this subject. My frame has two main sections, a rough cast portion, and a smooth anodized portion. The aluminum kit that is sold here will do the trick i'm guessing, but only after I sand down the casting, and remove the anodizing, correct? For the cast portion, should I use the greaseless compounds, and if so, what grits? For the smooth part, should I use the anodize stripper? I won't be able to dip the frame in a bath of it, so what is the best way to thicken it? I've read of someone using corn starch? Any help would be great, thanks.....

[mole]

In my experience with sanding and using greaseless I would say go with greaseless. So much faster and no hand cramps, just use a good drill. If you plan to do alot of polishing on other stuff I would buy all the different greaseless compounds and a bunch of spiral wheels that you can dedicate to use only those compounds with.

As for the anodizing, right now im working on a set of banshee rims (1997) that are anodized gold and what I used to take it off was ovencleaner. But on a streetbike I don't think it would be a great idea unless its stripped down to the frame. You can sand off anodizing but takes alot of work.

[nopulse95]

Do you think using the greaseless on the smooth anodized part would work better that using the anodizing remover? If so, what grit should I start with ?

Thanks.....

I have a 400ex, it's always covered in mud, I couldn't imaging trying to polish anything on it........

[Josh]

I wouldnt suggest using the greasless on the anodized part just thicken up the stripper with corn starch brush it on and let it sit overnight or longer and then sand from 220 or 320. I started with 180 greasless on the cast part then 240 and from there I hand sanded and it looked great. I had to use a couple of coats of the stripper to get it to work. My bike is in the guest gallery if you want to see what the cast will look like when finished it is the yamaha with the orange rims.

[nopulse95]

I've looked at those pictures plenty of times, looks good. So adding corn starch should thicken it up enough to stick to the frame? And starting with 180 greaseless should take care of the cast part. After hand sanding to 320, did you use the black emery compound, and then on to the brown ?

[Fireblade]

Here is an idea for you if you would prefer to use oven cleaner (I do) and still do it while the bike is together. You can use duct tape to tape off all parts that you do not want stripped. Like run a strip of tape along the back side edge of the frame spar, top and bottom. Then cut plastic bags or sheets of plastic into lengths that you tape to the strip of tape you put on the frame already, basically like masking off a car when you paint sections of it. It works great and is very easy to clean up once finished. Duct tape for some odd reason stands up to some serious chemicals like paint stripper and oven cleaner. I have done a few bikes like this and if you take your time and tape off well, you will not run into any problems. Most sportbikes today have a easily lifted gas tank anyways, GSXR's even have a prop rod, this makes it very easy to tape off the top part of the frame spar.

[skiddz]

Paste type strippers will literally stay wet (and stay in place) for hours if you apply them properly. The key is to paint 'em on in ONE direction only, and don't paint over any areas you've already applied the stripper to.

I use a stripper called Strypese and I've had it stay wet and active overnight before. Obviously leaving the part to cook in the sun or in a warmer environment will shorten the "wet" life, but it does work for a good long time.

[Josh]

if you use the caswells anodize stripper just be carefull how much corn starch you mix in. Dont make it to thick, or it will end up like jello just get it mixed so it barely runs off the brush and you should be good to go. Also I like to mix the stripper a little strong like 2-3 onces of mix to 1/4 gallon of water. Like mentioned in other posts, try to keep the surface of the frame wet with the stripper. You might have to give it a few coats and if it does dry up on you just wash the frame with hot water and reapply the stripper. hope this helps

[nopulse95]

I think I'm going to use easy-off, it worked for my swingarm, I'll just need to take a lot of time and mask off the engine, and parts of the frame I don't want stripped. So let me see if I have this right. I'll use 180 greaseless on a spiral wheel and then 240 on a spiral, for the cast part. Once I strip off the anodizing for the top part, hand sand the whole frame with 220 then 320. Do I need to sand up too 600? When can I go into the black compound. Also, I bought the aluminum polishing kit, so when are the best times to use the mushroom buffs? Is that something I use for the greasless? Thanks......

[Josh]

After you strip the top part of the frame you can hand sand from 320 to 600 (I ussually go to 800, dont know if it really does anythink but I do it anyway) then move to the black with the sisal wheel. Spend most of your time with this combo (80-90 percent). You should get a great shine from just the black. Then use the brown with the spiral wheel until you get a brilliant shine. from there you go with the white on a loose/spiral wheel and do the color motion. BAM you should have a mirror finish. Note: Some people skip the brown and go straight to the white.

[customandsound]

to save you time on taping the motor cover it in a heavy lawn and leaf bag .. the oven cleaner will not harm it ..