cleaning between compounds

[nopulse95]

I'm in the middle of polishing my sportbike frame, and I was wondering if I was supposed to clean the aluminum frame in between compounds. I've read the brake parts cleaner works, is that the best thing to use? Will it hurt the aluminum?

Any suggestions would be great, Thanks......

[Fireblade]

You should clean between compunds for this reason. You have spent the time to get the desired effect with the current compound you are using, so you clean it and start with a less abrasive compund. You don't want to get cross contamination and when your finishing up the last bit of polishing you hit some of the emory compund you used and dull it up, step backwards. That is the reason, clean the metal of all the compund and "stuck" metal from the polished surface, so your next compund has a clean surface to work with. Plus it lets you see your results easier at times.

[etyrrany]

I use IPA (Iso-Propol Alcohol (sp?)) and it works great. Melts the old compounds right before your eyes. I have no idea how much it costs, I get it from a friend.

etyrrany

[nopulse95]

isn't that just regular rubbing alchohol? fireblade, what do you recommend using?

[etyrrany]

Yes it is rubbing alcohol. The stuff I get is used in industry so I don't know how safe it is for disenfecting and stuff like that.

etyrrany

[customandsound]

hot water and simple green takes it right off

[Fireblade]

Anything cheap and convenient to you that still works is what I would use. I personally use acetone, but I have it available cheaply to me. I am gonna try the simple green and water combo CustomandSound uses, it would be easy to keep it in a large wash tank and just dip and wash the part in it. One thing I would steer away from is chlorinated brake cleaner, that stuff puts off a very irritating odor that will have you gasping for air if it is used on anything warm, like a freshly polished piece. It will stink ya out even with normal use, but don't use that stuff.

[shine]

i've tried brake clean,carb clean and never dull,the brake and carb clean
will have you feeling nice(not good)and leave a dull haze on aluminum.the never dull was just a newbie mistake.acetone is the way to go,it leaves the metal clean and smooth wich allows you to see spots that might need to be re-buffed and costs about $4.00 a bottle and can be found at just about any automotive parts store.hope this helped.

[skiddz]

The brake part cleaner I use is non-chlorinated. I think it's alcohol based but can't for the life of me remember the manufacturer.. Haven't had any hazing problems with it, but I wait until the parts are completely cooled before I hose 'em down.

Haven't tried acetone yet, but have tried laquer thinner. That seems to dull the finish a bit - either that or it's just smearing the grease around instead of removing it.

I *was* using Murphy's Oil Soap, but it's too friggin' expensive and requires a bit of rubbing and lots of water to rinse it clean.

I've got to run out to get paint for a SWMBO project tomorrow. Think I'll pick up a gallon can of Acetone and see how it works..

[customandsound]

you can use that castral purple power .. mix it at a 50:1 mix it eats it off ..

[skiddz]

It doesn't mar the finish? I've seen that stuff spot aluminum in a heartbeat at 10:1 mixes.. Maybe I'll try that on a scrap piece... There's got to be a cheaper cleanup method...

Still wanna build an ultrasound unit tho. heheh

[customandsound]

opps that is the wrong mix ... i mix 1 gallon to 5 gallons of water ..depending on what i am cleaning ... for the hot tank i use 3gallons to 2 gallons of water ...

[skiddz]

I tried Castrol Super Clean in a 25:1 ratio. Didn't do much at all.. 10:1 seemed to work ok tho. Still required a sponge to attack some of the weld beads and down in the corners but seemed to do a decent job.. I'm a bit leary of trying any stronger ratios tho. I've seen this stuff discolor aluminum in just a couple seconds of exposure.