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Brown & White don't work

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  • Brown & White don't work

    OK, I've been gaining experience for about 2 months now and really nothing to show for it because I can't get the brown and white to polish like they are suppose to.
    I have gotten good at the black. I am polishing 1.5 inch square tubing. By switching off different wheels I can get the finish just like glass. The only thing left is a lack of color and surface scratches from the black.
    When I go to brown or if I skip the brown and go to the white. I immediately get a haze on the metal. There is polishing going on but it is a dull shine. I can touch it up with the black and it will polish right back up and will have a little better color but still have the surface scratches from the black. If I heat the metal with the wheel like I do using the black, the haze goes away, the color gets better but the metal finish distorts. I get a slight waviness to the finish, at times I have even gotten an orange peel effect. When compared to the black results you can definitely see a difference in the smoothness. The black has a consistent reflection where as the brown or white results has a slight distorted reflection.
    I am using a 3/4" buffer and 6" wheels, I have tried 8" and I have tried a hand polisher that can generate more heat. I have literally tried every combination but I just can't seem to get the results I expect. I would think that if I can get a glass like finish with black that following up with the brown or white should produce outstanding results because all the work is done with the black. It should be just a matter of polishing out the surface scratches and adding a little color.

  • #2
    black is best used on a sisal ... i work that til i get a nice clean dull shine . then i load a 6" sprial and brown till i get a nice shine going .. this step is to do the final cut and polish .. then i load another 6"sprial with white .... i use a bench mount and a dewalt grinder with a 6" on the bench i go up and down with the grinder i go left to right... are you cleaning the part good after the black?

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    • #3
      Yeah, I hear you and I have done all of that. I clean it after the black with brake cleaner and every time a change compounds. I have clean wheels and I rake them. I believe that I get the right results with the black and I expect the same response from the metal with the brown and white but it just doesn't happen. I can not get a final finish with either one.

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      • #4
        OK, potentially stupid question(s) here.. What wheels are you using when trying the brown and white compounds?

        Black should be used with a sisal (Some folks use a tight spiral wheel)
        Brown on a tight or sewn spiral
        White on a loose cotton or flannel.

        When you load the compound, it's not going to "paint" the surface of the wheel the color of the compound. On a brand new wheel, you'll see a bit of color transfer, but not a whole lot.

        I think you're on the right track, just gotta get your process a bit more dialed in. Cleaning between compounds is important as you don't want to contaminite the next wheel with the previous muck. Are you allowing the brake cleaner to evaporate completely before beginning the next step? If it's still a bit wet with cleaner, the cleaner will cause the compound to "melt" and just smear itself all over the part - along with all the black junk on the wheel.

        I clean with brake fluid as well, but then follow up with HOT water and some dishwahing soap, then I wipe the part dry with a chamois cloth before I start the next step.

        Once you get your process figured out, you'll really see the shine start to come on with the brown and it'll really brighten up with the white.

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        • #5
          What material is the 1.5 square tubing? If it is stainless, you have to use black/sisal then go to the green compound on a sprial sewn, and then green on a loose canton.
          Darrin

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          • #6
            I didn't mention it but I am working with aluminium. I went back and tried some more, I believe it is called practice. and noticed that when I went to brown it deposited compound in little holes, then when it heated up it would cut the metal as it was buffed out. So i went back and resanded the piece with 500 and then used scotchbrite till there was no visible imperfections. Did the black, did the brown and it had a better finish and no damage. still not has shinny as I thought. Then when I hit it with the white the shine just jumped out. The finish looks like it was chrome plated. Amazing what a little more sanding will do.
            The finish is excellent, but there is still some very small scratches and haze. How can I get it perfect

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            • #7
              you are right the better you sand the better you part looks ... prep is the key to it all .... toss a pic up so we can see!!!!!

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              • #8
                You can try stepping back to the brown and buff perpendicular to the scratch lines, then back to the white, perpendicular to the direction you just did the brown in.

                I've heard some folks say some talcum powder on a damp wheel will remove fine scratches, but I've never tried it so I can't say if it'd work or not.

                Sounds like you're on the right track. With more practice, I'm sure you'll get some really good results.

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