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Polishing MC gas tank

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  • skiddz
    replied
    That one shiny piece cost me 3+ months of time and over $4k.. I was gonna toss that new Banshee motor back into the old beat-up frame and just ride it. Once the case was polished, it was all over. EVERYTHING had to be polished, powdercoated or plated.

    Man, I hope I don't get nailed with that when I dive into the wife's old 240sx this summer... heheehh

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    There is always stuff that can be polished...and therein lies my delima It started with 1 tiny little insignificant piece but it stuck out like a bright shiny piece of aluminum (Aha, ha ha!) Once I saw how effortless it was (at least for aluminum) I was hooked. It's a curse really.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    look's great .. i still see some stuff that can be polished

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  • Shawn60
    replied

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  • Shawn60
    replied

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    Lets see if this one works

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    Thanks Skiddz. Saw some shots of your Banshee from your home site, very nice work on the cases and carb. You crack me up with the 'how to make a 2" sisal from a 6" ' post. Thanks for the tip on posting pix. Still having problems with posting the pic, getting aggravated. I am copying and pasting so I don't see how there can be any errors. Anyway, here is a link to my bike page http://members.cox.net/daniels30/Pub...s/page0001.htm

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  • skiddz
    replied
    Pics are easy to post. Just click the "Img" button up top, type in the *EXACT* URL (it's case sensitive!) to the pic and then click the "Img" button again. The pic you want to post has to be out on the web somewhere. (unless you're running some type of web server outta your house - which most ISPs frown upon)

    The bike looks nice BTW.

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    http://members.cox.net/daniels30/Pub...s/page0003.htm

    Bottom right corner of the page shows my tank. Thanks for all the advice gentlemen!

    Okay, why can't I get a picture to post?

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    Hey, how does carbon steel compare to stainless? Will the recommended buffing compounds be the same for carbon?

    EDIT:
    Success! And about bloody time too. Got my 2 sisal wheels today and that was the ticket. Spiral wheels won't do jack on carbon steel even loaded with emery. I should be posting pics in the next day or two. Just wanted to say thanks to everybody for all the advice given. This board is great.

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    Mostly error he he

    You got that right Skiddz I've got a sisal wheel on the way, we'll see how that works for me. It keeps getting better every time I go over it again but like I said before, patience is not a virtue I can claim Really appreciate all the advice guys.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Shawn60.
    from what i found on polishing steel it dose take longer and you can get a nice results from it to ...
    i sand like i do on alum.. when i get in the wet sanding i use 220 right up to 2500 grit wet at this point you should have a nice shine going .. double stack siprial load it with brown and got 2 pass's in the cut motion and 4 passes in the color motion .... then i triple stack losse cotton and load it with green and do the same . then swithc over to 3 losse 10" load white then hit is til you see that there is a nice shine ... this stage is where i get all the fine little scratches out ... then if you want you can hit it with red it is more less a color compound that bring's out the shine ... give it 3 good coat's of wax buff it anf you got a nice chrome look

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  • skiddz
    replied
    Hand sanding will go the furthest towards scratch removal. if the tank is kinda battered, I think I'd probably start with 400 greaseless on a tight spiral, get the tank smoothed out with that then dive into the wet-sand with 400 and possibly 600 until scratches are gone.

    If it's not too bad, dive in with a sisal/emory and see how it comes out. You might have to hand sand a few small areas again, but the sisal/emroy should work pretty well.

    As for the green, my bad.. I had aluminum on the brain and forgot a step. hehe

    For steel I do sisal/emory or treated spiral/emery to start, then tight spiral/tripoli, then spiral/green and finish up with loose/white.

    best way to figure out a method that works for you is to experiment. My way isn't the same as customandsound's or anybody elses, but we all get good results. Trial and error (mostly error when you're first starting out hehe) will get you a good result in the end.

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  • Shawn60
    replied
    Ahaaaa, said the blind man as he picked up his hammer &

    Which will do more scratch removal, sisal/emery or spiral/greaseless? Also, some say to use this green compound, specifically made for steel, what's the difference between that or going the spiral/tripoli and loose cotton/white route?

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  • skiddz
    replied
    Steel is an entirely different animal when it comes to polishing. Sanding steps are basically the same, it just requires more effort and more time to acheive the smooth satiny finish.

    The initial polish on steel should be a sisal wheel and emory (black) compound. Follow with a tight spiral/brown, then loose/white.

    Don't use greaseless compounds with a sisal wheel. Use a tight spiral wheel and it'll work great.

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