Metal Polishing Questions for Nickel Plating

now for starters .. get the part glass beaded then wetsand with 220 to 1000 grit at that point you should have a satin /smooth surface finish
start with a sisal/black hit it 2-3 passes in the cut motion
then change buff's to a sprial/black combo you will get a nice shine in the color motion .
then switch over to a new buff ... sprial / green color motion
then to loose /red color motion
finish off with either high grade carnuba wax of clear urathane ...

that is how i do steel part's and i get a chrome like finish everytime

if you want plating start a new topic in the electroplating

[pelletman]

I think I may have been not clear here!

I probably should have said that I'm not looking to fix these parts, but what do I do if I am starting with old rusty parts from scratch? I appreciate the advice!

Thanks

Dave

Re: Metal Polishing Questions for Nickel Plating

Hello Everyone,

I restore antique bicycles, generally the type with the large wheel in the front and small in the rear. I just picked up some parts form the plater today, and IU was generally unhappy with the results. He didn't remove enough pitting with many ot the pieces. I'm wondering, if you have an old rusty part, do you just start right into buffing with an aggressive wheel and compound? Or do you use an emery wheel or belt sander to rough out the part first? Many of the parts need to be handled carefully so they don't loose too much of the metal. The material is generally steel.

I have a 3450 RPM buffer, belt sanders, die grinders, dremels, etc and I'm thinking of doing some of the work myself.

Thanks

Dave

don't use emery . it will remove way to much plating ... belt sander is out to ..you may be able to get away with using a mopor loose cotton with red compound with out tearing up the plating ...

now for starters .. get the part glass beaded then wetsand with 220 to 1000 grit at that point you should have a satin /smooth surface finish
start with a sisal/black hit it 2-3 passes in the cut motion
then change buff's to a sprial/black combo you will get a nice shine in the color motion .
then switch over to a new buff ... sprial / green color motion
then to loose /red color motion
finish off with either high grade carnuba wax of clear urathane ...

that is how i do steel part's and i get a chrome like finish everytime

[pelletman]

Hello Everyone,

I restore antique bicycles, generally the type with the large wheel in the front and small in the rear. I just picked up some parts form the plater today, and IU was generally unhappy with the results. He didn't remove enough pitting with many ot the pieces. I'm wondering, if you have an old rusty part, do you just start right into buffing with an aggressive wheel and compound? Or do you use an emery wheel or belt sander to rough out the part first? Many of the parts need to be handled carefully so they don't loose too much of the metal. The material is generally steel.

I have a 3450 RPM buffer, belt sanders, die grinders, dremels, etc and I'm thinking of doing some of the work myself.

Thanks

Dave