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  • help!

    ok, i have some experience polishing- most of it bad experience. last summer i wanted to poilish a sandcasted intake and some valve covers, both alum. i bought greaseless compounds (4), a bunch of sisal wheels, cloth wheels, black bars, tan bars, white rouge, etc...the works. i than spent many filthy, dirty hours getting minimal results. here were the problems-
    - i was told to use the greaseless compounds first, grittiest first down through all four, dedicating one cloth wheel to each grit. all that happened when i tried to get the compound onto the cloth was that i shot the compound all over the place and barely any stuck to the cloth. in any case, i tried to microwave the compound to soften it added water as directed and still no good.
    - i than tried the sisal wheel with the black compound. the black **** flew off the bar and onto my face, didn't stick at all to the wheel, but the wheel by itself did some work anyhow. it took a long while, but it worked well, the surface was like a mirror. the sisal wheels kept coming apart in my face and after burning through 3 of them on half a valve cover, i gave up.
    - just recently i used a baldor setup with regular old cloth wheel. the stuff that i used was a black compound that came in a cylinder, and you kind of put the cylinder to the wheel, it became saturated, and you polished with it. it worked pretty good.
    i really want to get good at this. what rpm and horsepower do i need to look for in a solid mounted machine? it's looking like one of those is the best way to go. also, what' the black stuff in the cylinder? please, no more tubes of gunk that look like salami and don't do anything but aggravate me, i just need to know what the best way to get old crummy alum looking like a mirror without taking forever. if it costs a few bucks, fine. i plan on making a business out of it locally, quality of work is as important as ease of work and time.

  • #2
    well so far you had a mess going ...

    here is what you can to do to improve :
    with the greaseless : don't micro wave it

    to load your buff the wheel is easy to load go with the flow of the wheel so when the wheel spins it will pick it up . turn the machine on and stuf it off with the compound on the wheel as the time go's on the compound will flow in to the buff.

    load your compounds the same way once they soften up they will draw the compound in .

    now let's get started :

    1. degrease yout part : use simple green heated to 200f and the dirt and grime come right off.
    2. toss the part in a bead blaster : this will knock down most of the casting marks ( i use med grit in one blaster to get the white finish then i toss the part in the glass bead cab. this will give you a satin look)
    3. after glass beading you can start with 100 grit sand the part til you got a dull look then go to the next grit and if you did it right at 600 you will have a semi gloss look ( i got to 1500 and i end up with a dull shine )
    4. this is the start of polishing load a double stack 6" sisal on the machine
    load the buff with black if it is hard to load take a screw driver and lossen up the tips not much you want to let the compound flow in to the buff. work this side to side then up and down then side to side after 3-4 passes you will be back to a smooth dull look
    5. load the machine with double stack sprial load with black again work this in the cut motion for 2 passes then go in the color motion for 2 passes you should have a shine now ( some use brown at this stage but with all the work i have done i don't use brown anymore )
    6. now that you got a shine load 2 fresh sprial's load with green do 4 passes in the color motion this will produce a mirror reflection
    7. load on a double stack of loose cotton load with white go in the color motion to you get a high luster mirror shine some times 4-5 passes will do.
    8. this is optional: load a double stack losse cotton load with red compound and color motion and bling there is the mirror high luster you want ..

    keep each compound wraped in a glad bag and each pad of the color i mark and store in bag's wheile buffing they are in a place that will not get the other compound on .. rake out you buff's this will keep the compound from drying and scratching your part. clean after each step .and over time you will get the work to look like it was chromed

    good luck !!!!!! and post some pics of the finished part ....


    • #3
      thanks for the response, i'll give it another shot. i see on your website that you're located in pa, not far from me at all on long island. as bad as i am at polishing, i'm very good with metal fab and i have a cnc mill, lathe, mig, tig, and stick welding, and can make/repair pretty much anything you could think of- if you guys are looking to get into that sort of business (i noticed on the site it said "coming soon- mig welding") lemme know and i can steer you in the right direction or perhaps we can work together.
      btw, what sort of polisher would you recommend? i had been using a hand operated die grinder with the wheels jammed on it, i want to get a good stand mounted machine but i don't know what rpm range to get or what the best brand is. thanks!


      • #4
        that page is outdated i got a new one going up next month .. i finally got my server done and it is going to be bigger and better...

        email me.. i got a guy that has a foundry and i sand cast there ,