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Frame polishing....same process...2 different finishes? HELP

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  • bairdmotorcycles
    replied
    thanks

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  • sswee
    replied
    bairdmotorcycles,
    I think he means.
    pm - private message
    at the top of the page

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  • bairdmotorcycles
    replied
    you mean rpm's correct? I was using a big electric 1 3/4 hp buffer/polisher with 3400-3600 rpm and a air polisher with 4200 rpm. I was using a 8in wheel at first but then realized the rpm was more than the recommended speed so I switched to a 4in wheel (which should put me in the recommended range) and I think it got better. The more I seem to be learning the more it seems the marks are impossible to completely rid the piece of but I want to minimize it the best I can. I know it can get better because I had another frame in my shop that was done by another shop that had less swirls. Should I use the powder as suggested as the last and final stage to help? Or is there another product which helps minimize swirl marks at the finals stages other than the wheels (mushrooms or something)? Thanks in advance!

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  • customandsound
    Guest replied
    bairdmotorcycles
    check your pm's

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  • bairdmotorcycles
    replied
    I may try a few more things but I think it may very well be as good as its going to get. Thanks for the help!!

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  • mpierich
    replied
    Originally posted by bairdmotorcycles
    I have the finish I want but I can still see swirl marks from the wheel when the frame is directly in the sunlight or at certain angles. When its not in the direct sunlight (inside or shade), its nearly perfect and looks absolutely great and reflects like a mirror.
    Look for the "NASA" post. It seems aluminum's softness makes it almost impossible to attain a true optically perfect surface, hence the swirl marks. They drive me nuts, but as you say the customers don't seem to mind. The ones who do are really looking for a chrome job, which is hard enough to take on a perfect polishing job.

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  • fly
    replied
    If you try a 3m type of disk it will help with the swirls, go to maxtools.com and look at their grinding disk they have the sand paper disk and the 3m disk get the med. and course 3m disk and then try your white, or blue rouge with a loose cotton wheel on a 7"or 9" grinder.

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  • bairdmotorcycles
    replied
    That would seem to make sense but I am not sure thats the problem I am having unless I am horribly wrong. I have the finish I want but I can still see swirl marks from the wheel when the frame is directly in the sunlight or at certain angles. When its not in the direct sunlight (inside or shade), its nearly perfect and looks absolutely great and reflects like a mirror. But in the direct sunlight its a different story. Many customers have commented on the fact that they can not believe its not chrome because of the shine and how good it looks but I am a prefectionist and want to know if I can get it any better then this and do away with the slight haze in the direct sunlight left by each pass of the wheel. Its as if it traces the movement of the wheel across the frame like footprints in the sand but only shows up with direct sunlight. Any suggestions? I can see if I cant post some pics.......

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  • rides20
    replied
    ...going from 80 right to 220 is a mistake that could quite possibly be the only one in this case. When I did an R1 frame, i used 60 grit to get most of my "shaping" in..then onto the 80, then 100, 150, 220 on the DA..then start wet again with 220 to remove DA marks and replace the "grain"...adding the 100 and 150 in there still removes alot of material, which is probably where your scratches are "hiding"...try it out on a small spot, and let us know!!!

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  • bairdmotorcycles
    replied
    I also use the liquid white rouge mixed with water when I wet sand to help it. I am going to re-sand yet again and try a few different processes today. Thinking of doing sisal/emery right to white/loose or maybe right to white/loose because the brown/spiral only seems to make it worse off. Probably trying the red as well. Heck I dont know....just going to keep going until I am happy which may be never but I have a feeling the customer will want his frame back sooner than later. But I will let you know what I find out.

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  • fizlfry
    replied
    Two different finishes

    Hey,
    That looks EXACTLY like the problem I am having as we speak!!!!
    Look at this pic, http://www.caswellplating.com/bbs/al...php?pic_id=513
    and tell me if it looks kinda like that?
    I have also been scratching my head.....
    I have been using dish soap in the water, (just a little) and it really seems to help. It seems I have to get new water more, but, sands better.
    About the different finishes.....
    I have been able to get a little better match with going over the Brown like, 10 times.... No black emery/sisal, just sanding, then brown/spiral...
    I am using a Makita 2500RPM drill, and the Caswells 4" wheel.
    I resanded more than once too, so, dont feel bad!
    Hang in there

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  • pickleboy
    replied
    i have used wd40 and it did not seem to be that much better. not disputing but for me it seem to be the same. i have also read here that the best thing would be kerosene. this makes a little sense due to the heavy oil content. maybe try that.

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  • bairdmotorcycles
    replied
    Thank you both for the advise. I think I am going to re-sand yet once again back to 120 or so and hit it possibly with the spiral/emery to see what happens and then maybe right to the loose white. The haze is just to much to make me happy with it. I own a motorcycle shop and understand the difference in materials especially cast when it comes to chrome plating but its just to different of finishes for me to be satisified with it leaving the shop. Dont get me wrong, it looks good but not good enough for me. Plus I know it can be done as I painted another bike with both sections perfectly mirrored. I read a post in the forum dated a few years back where the individual sanded with wd40 rather than water when wet sanding and he claimed it helped. Anybody know anything about this? Or if you can provide any other information or suggestions please do so. Once again thanks!

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  • mpierich
    replied
    Only thing I could add is that yeah, after the 80 grit you should go to 120 as the next step.

    I used to think I had to follow the formula all the way to red rouge, but every piece of metal is different. I finished a sportbike wheel last night and after starting with 80/120/240/320 the wet with 500, I hit it with emery and is looked great. No tripoli at all. I could have finished it off with white rouge but it's for a rider not a show bike. As some others have notide, the tripoli does seem to produce a haze sometimes. In future I will probably use it only to freshen up a previously -polished piece.

    You _will_ find pits (bubbles) in any cast parts. Unless maybe theywere made for NASA...

    Oh btw, the greaseless compunds can save you a lot of sanding.

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  • pickleboy
    replied
    i will try to make as much sense of this as i can for you and also try not to be long winded. first off the 2 materials, even though both alum. are very different. the cast is hot poured as you would steel in a liquid form. the tube section is cold drawn in this it means that the grain structure is different. the tube has a dirrection of grain and the cast does not. the cast also has the possibility of having pits in it under the surface that are minor defects in the process. nothing you can do about that. cold formed (tube or forged billet) is allways going to get a better shine due to the material being denser. as for your process it sound good. the possibility is that the 2 different pieces may never match. when i have done cast in the past i have had the same problems. keep watching this thread and others will chime in and give some good advise. also give a look at the top of the polishing forum at the sticky on polishing motorcycle frames 101 and look at syco's frame. maybe you can get a idea as to what to expect there. hope this helps a little bit and best of luck bro.
    cliff

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