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  • Black Oxide questions

    Just received my order of BO solution. It did not come with instruction pamphlet which bottle label says to refer to. Anybody have one that could be e-mailed? Cannot find one on Caswell site.

    What is a "water break test" that is refered to on bottle lable?

    Eager to try this on some firearm parts, but do not want to start without knowing exactly I am supposed to do. I do know, clean, clean, clean and then clean some more.

    Thanks for any input.

  • #2
    Re: Black Oxide questions

    I've attached the instructions. Black Oxide.pdf

    The Water Break test is detailed here - The Water Break Test - Powered by Kayako Fusion Help Desk Software
    --
    Lance Caswell
    Caswell Inc
    http://www.caswellplating.com
    Need Support? Visit our online support section at http://support.caswellplating.com

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    • #3
      Re: Black Oxide questions

      Lance, is it possible to use the black oxide kit to coat zinc coated steel washers? Woud I need to remove the zinc coating first? Would a trip through the blasting cabinet do the trick?

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      • #4
        Re: Black Oxide questions

        Originally posted by nlorntson View Post
        Lance, is it possible to use the black oxide kit to coat zinc coated steel washers? Woud I need to remove the zinc coating first? Would a trip through the blasting cabinet do the trick?
        Black Oxide is basically a "controlled" form of "rust" (oxidation) that is kept in check by frequent oiling..
        It is my experience that the "Cold Bluing", or Black Oxide Kits do not "color" well on zinc plated fasteners.. Probably because the Zinc Plate it protected by a clear or yellow Chromate. Stainless Steel and certain grades of steel don't take Black Oxide well, either..
        You can sandblast off the Zinc, but this will result in a "matte" finish of the washers and the resulting Black Oxide will turn out "flat", very dull.. The best option is to mix a 25% Solution of Muratic Acid (swimming pool cleaner acid) (slowly pour the acid into the water!!!!!!).. One part Muratic, three parts water.. You'll only need a pint (total) of so for a one-time deal... Wire the washers so there is space between them, then immerse into the 25% solution.. When the "fizzing" stops, rinse in clean, distilled water several times, probably would hurt to use one rinse of water and Baking Soda to make sure the acid (residue) is neutralized.. This will result in keeping the smooth/shiny pre-zinc plate finish and will produce a better looking Black-Oxide finish.. If this is important to you.
        Charles

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        • #5
          Re: Black Oxide questions

          What is the pot life of the solution/water mixture once activated? Do I need to mix a new batch of solution each time I want to plate parts?

          Thanks

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          • #6
            Re: Black Oxide questions

            Originally posted by WillyKJr View Post
            What is the pot life of the solution/water mixture once activated? Do I need to mix a new batch of solution each time I want to plate parts?

            Thanks
            WillyKJr;
            I do not know what the "Pot Life" is of the Black Oxide once mixed, but having used it, I do know you can easily Black Oxide ALL the fasteners from one car with it (I did, over the course of nine months!).... Actually, I used the Black Oxide kit on one and a half cars.. a '65 Mustang (full body shell roticesseri restoration) and a '67 Mustang (hood, front fenders, grille, front & rear valance panels, doors & trunk lid removed for complete removal of 3-4 layers of paint. I sandblasted the body intact. Not all fasteners were done in Black Oxide as some were to have a "natural" finish (sandblast, wire-brush then clear-coat!)
            I still have about a half gallon of the Black Oxide mix (it's over ten years old).. it still looks good and the "Sealing Oil" has not thickened up.. So, I'm going to try it on some pieces requiring Black Oxide.. We'll see.
            Charles

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