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Picklex, anyone here ever use it?

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  • non-stick
    replied
    well....yes on the pickling. It's basically an industry accepted term for acid etching as stated before. As far as the phosphate cells/crystals,etc...up to a point yes as well. The remaining "residue" of the phosphate can only fill micrscopic voids(whereas the pickle creates it's own voids and then that reidue fills them) and not be a substitute for gouges, scratches and such. All in all.... an aid in surface prep that doesn't hurt anything. Experiment and go for it either way. Worst that can happen is melted powder that sticks to the part

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  • 1flyte
    replied
    Actually, Picklex etches the surface of the metal, while a Phosphate coating smooths out the surface. The phosphate cells form a layer over the metal's surface. That layer both smooths the surface and eliminates electrical differences.

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  • non-stick
    replied
    Again..... I'll add my 2-cents as per usual,lol. Picklex is nothing more than a low V.O.C. water based acid wash compound. It basically works in the same manner as phosphate washing for iron but supposedly is "better" somehow. While this is a relatively new product on the market (compared to iron phosphate,that is), it lays some pretty hefty claims as to what it can do. Picklex claims when used properly it can make welds up to 60% stronger,remove scale and convert micro dust. Well....uh I dunno about making a weld stronger or taking rust scale and converting it fully to a useable compound. Seems a little bit tall of an order for me. Let's just focus on what it "basically" does and where the name derives from to help keep expectations realistic,k?

    Picklex....which derives it's name from "pickling" your substrate is a surface prep. Pickling means that you acid etch the surface of your metal. Nothing more. You can dip metal in orange juice and pickle it, truth be known. In my very limited experience using this product it has it's advantages. Such as.....phosphate applies a crystaline structure to said substrate and acts as a primer. Pickles does that as well as digging into the metal to help ensure the bond. It also "does" indeed make the surface more conductive therefore theoretically more condusive to application of charged particulate. While iron phosphate is a simple wash and rinse....picklex is a little more intricate and CAN create flash-rust on the surface of your metal if all processes are not adhered to (perhaps why you are haviong problems). First step....degrease (this is where phosphate has the advantage. It's basically a soap truth be known so no excessive degreasing needed). Second step....rinse (again, same as phosphate) Third step... picklex (not needed in phosphating). Lastly, rinse again (you already did this step 2 moves back with phosphate). Both processes must be thoroughly dried at this time (pay attention all you people who have flash rusting!) as the vehicle for both is basically H2O. If left on a part, prepped steel will most assuredly rust no matter what you do before hand.
    Is Picklex better than phosphating? I leave time and you, the user to be that judge. Both have thier advantages and dis-advantages. I may be willing to put my money on the picklex in due time only for the fact that it actually helps "etch" your surface metal, albeit microscopically (do some research on "ultrasonic cleaning and etching" to see what I'm talking about). However....it's by no means a cure all for a rusty scaled part that needs to be mechanically prepped (sandblasted) and I wouldn't treat it as such. If one would REALLY need a home run in this area....I'd sandblast and then either picklex or phosphate to have a win/win scenario. After all.... it's the prep that matters most in powder coating. Once in a cure, the powder will do the rest for you. Hope that helps answer your questions (I'm not even touching the Picklex-20 subject as it can't be used under powder coatings without getting an unstable surface into the mix. Good for your 79 Pinto before bondo maybe, but not the part you're going to powder coat). Take care all and best of luck...... Russ

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  • Fireblade
    replied
    I believe you are referring to Picklex 20, not Picklex. Picklex 20 is what you would spray on rust to convert it to a coating. The stuff I am referring to is used on clean, bare metal, not rusty metal. It will remove flash rust, but not what you are referring to, I believe. I figured out what was going on anyways, but figured I'd respond to your reply, even though it has been a while, I must of missed your response. Sorry

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  • esahlin
    replied
    I ve used Picklex on rusted metal before and it is a good rust converter...it should turn the rust to a blackish color. Make sure you wipe off the excess Picklex (droplets that form after spraying and let it dry for about 15 minutes. its also a good idea to use a shop towel, after spraying the Picklex, to rub the Picklex on the rusted metal to make sure it is "ground" into all the holes and divots in the metal.

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  • Fireblade
    started a topic Picklex, anyone here ever use it?

    Picklex, anyone here ever use it?

    I use Picklex for my pretreatment and just want to see if any of you use it and how you like it? On steel, it seems to rust the part, but maybe I am wrong and this is actually the conversion?
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