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Alum prep

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  • Alum prep

    I am going to place the "big" order today, an was thinking I need this...Iron Phosphate Primer I am going to order yellow in the Weatherable Coating it is TGIC powder.
    I plan to coat intake, valve covers, heater block off plate, and transmission housing(while it is apart). Also will the heat from the 1500 watt IR light be not so good for the seals in a water pump?

    Thank you in Advanced


  • #2
    congrats on stepping up to the plate and joining us!

    I don't see a problem with the heat from the IR lamp to your parts. Of's ALWAYS best to have it all down to bare metal, but the IR heats what it "see" as stated in other posts. Personally, I'd take the seals out....but if it were a do or die situation, I wouldn't be all to concerned about it. Just take the part after the powder cures (you will see it happen) and put it in front of a fan quick to cool it down rapidly (also know as air quenching). Other than that one issue... I think you are on the road to success like all the others on here. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask us any questions at all. We're a family here and help our own fer sure .....Russ


    • #3
      I just took a good few minutes and thought about what I just said about the water pump. I can't really gaurantee your seal condition as I'm not the one there coating it for you. Maybe I know what to look for more, or I just feel more assured in the whole process. I dunno. (don't want anybody to freak and jump on my butt for telling you bad info,lol. Trust me....they will because I'm supposed to "know better" about these things). I'd remove seals and do it like that unless I had a choice obviously. Of course....I'd like to think I'm experienced enough to chance it seeing as how it's not really crucial and in direct contact with the IR view. This is a tough one....IF you have the option of buying new seals and doing it I would (small insurance for a water pump anyways) just because you don't have that knowledge of what you can get away with just yet. Otherwise... I don't forecast any other problems for you in any of the areas you mentioned in the above statements. Hope that didn't confuse you,lol....Russ


      • #4
        Personally, when i do parts i remove all seals etc. I noticed when i left them in, they hardened (i use a oven) or they had oil etc trapped in the folds and crevices, which would screw up the powder around it. Just my 2 cents. Good luck


        • #5
          Thanks guys, how about this stuff>Iron Phosphate Primer or will it be fine if I just bead blast it then wipe it with thinner or acatone?


          • #6
            I have comments about this in the Tips and Tricks thread reagrding surface preperation. As stated there.... schools of thought are split on this but I'll comment on your particular application. Assuming parts that are going underneath the car, you could do worse by blasting AND backing it up with a good phosphate wash. Phosphate is after all, a cleaner as well as surface prep for some good grip. Probably something like this might help you (especially on that transmission case which will see the most abuse under your car). Degrease,sandblast,phosphate wash then powder coat. Yopu couldn't ask for much better adhesion than that. Not to mention..... the phosphate is relatively inexpensive and good for a long while. Personally, I've used it before and suggest you add that tidbit of insurance on your tougher parts but that's just me. I hate doing things twice if it can be avoided......Russ