PMT is commonly referred to "part metal temperature" and all it basically means is that the part has to be at a certain temperature for a set amount of time. As an example... we'll say 400F @15 minutesPMT... basically your part has to be to 400F for 15 minutes to fully "cure" the powder coating. Hemi-T is correct with his guidelines in saying that aluminum heats up quickly, steel is more dense and takes longer, etc. Powders also have a 100% over-bake built into them for the most part so a few more minutes is a good way to ensure that it's cured correctly and it's not harmed at all.
Welcome to the boards and good luck with your projects!..... Russ
-
I use cheap "Black Magnum" grit from Menards. Sand would work OK I guess, but when using any form of silica (sand) be sure to wear proper lung protection. Silica is nasty stuff to get in your lungs.
As for curing time/temp, it depends on your part. If it's a solid block of steel with lots of mass, you'll have to cure it longer. Most normal parts don't have that much mass, and heat up quickly enough that you don't need to compensate much on curing time. I just cure at 400 degrees for 15 minutes on all my parts. In my own experience, I've found that over curing a little bit is better than undercuring a little bit. Hope this helps!
Hemi-TLeave a comment:
-
blasting media(first time PC'er)
A BIG Hello to all PC' ers !!!!!!!!!Getting ready to order my color & do my first part....I read all the questions/answers in the forum & want to clarify a couple of things: I have always used sand to sandblast, is this ok on steel and/or aluminum for powder coating
What about curing- does the "piece"itself need to be the designated temp or just in the oven at set temp for set time
I have used "ospho" in the past for metal treatment prior to painting with real good results, is it ok here?
Thank you for any & all info!!!!! I plan to try the plastic plating when I start my Mopar restoration......
Leave a comment: