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Noob with a lot of ??????'s

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  • Noob with a lot of ??????'s

    After calling around and finding out what shops wanted for PC I decided to look into doing it myself. WOW! You don't need a Mortgage to get the basic equipment!!! I plan on getting a large compressor, 20 gal parts cleaning station, 30lb blaster, PC gun set up, and an old electric oven. I plan on practicing on my Friends parts and charge then just $10-20 a part + Materials while learning so I figure I will let them pay for my equipment

    1. What is the best way to determine if a part has reached curing temp without a IR thermometer?

    2. I will be doing mostly car parts, Brackets, Suspensions, Valve covers, ect.. Will Regular powder work or will I have to use Weatherable?

    3. Will a Clear Coat be needed or is it just a extra touch of protection?

    4. I have parts that need a two tone or lettering done in a 2nd color, how is the best way to handle that?

    5. How do you PC where the part hangs from the hooks

    6. Does anyone have a Caswell PC system for sale at a reduced price

    7. One more thing I noticed the Tech Line Coatings (Black Satin (BHK) ). Do they require a special gun to apply them?

    I am sure I will have more 's later but this is all for now.

  • #2
    Lot of views but no answers, hrmmm strange. One more question,

    If I coat my bolt heads, will it handle the torque of installing without getting trashed?

    Also how does one apply the Ceramic coatings. do you need a diff gun?


    • #3
      Here goes....

      1. Well, this is a way, but not recommended....your finger no just kidding. This is another way after you coat the part and cure it, let it cool, then you can try doing a MEK test on it. Using a Qtip, dip in in MEK, a chemical bought from Lowes or the like, and do a rub test in an inconspicuous area, it should not easily transfer the color to the qtip, if it does then it is not fully cured. An IR thermometer is worth it's price, you can get them for under $100, cheap insurance for seeing what you are doing. Good learning tool.

      2. Any powder that is UV resistant will work, epoxies are not UV resistant. Most powders sold here are UV resistant, polyester and hybrids and such are. They will normally specify what they are.

      3. Some powders require a clear, some just for added gloss, depth or your judgement. Chrome requires clear, as do most anything that have silver pigments.

      4. Depends on the part, you can mask the lettering, and shoot the rest, remoce the masking and remask everything else. Or do just the opposite, mask everything else, than spray the lettering, cure, remove the masking, tape up the lettering and spray and cure. You will probably have an "edge" between the colors and may need to spray a clear to smooth the edge out.

      5. You don't. Touch up with paint , or find a spot that does not need to be coated.

      6. Not me.

      7. Yep, a touch up detail spray gun, gravity type preffered or a air brush gun. Either will work, depends on your needs.

      8. Good luck


      • #4
        thank you Very Much Fireblade. I am off to Harbor freight to buy a bunch of stuff and Home Depot to buy matrials for my blast and Spray booth. I will post pics when I get them finished.


        • #5
          If I coat my bolt heads, will it handle the torque of installing without getting trashed?
          I've had good luck painting hex-key bolts with epoxy enamel and letting them cure for several days before using them. I've never had anything but plating or a good polishing on a "normal" bolt/nut hold up under the ministrations of a wrench.