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  • Orange peel

    How do you go about getting rid of orange peel? Can you wet-sand the powdercoat to give it a better finish, or do I have to strip it all off and redo it? I sprayed some parts and they look thick and peeled, definitely too much powder.


    Plus, anyone have any suggestions for stripping PC? I stripped a 302 intake and it took me about 7 coats of airline stripper and about 8 hours of 125 psi using medium black beauty. I did it all cuz it looked crappy, but it turned out to just be the cast of the part . There HAS to be something easier than that.

    Thanks in advance

  • #2
    Re: Orange peel

    Originally posted by Robb

    Plus, anyone have any suggestions for stripping PC? I stripped a 302 intake and it took me about 7 coats of airline stripper and about 8 hours of 125 psi using medium black beauty. I did it all cuz it looked crappy, but it turned out to just be the cast of the part . There HAS to be something easier than that.

    Thanks in advance
    I too got tired of this, I found a Shop that will hot tank my parts for $5 - $10 each. I love it! Call the machine shops in your area and ask them how much to hot tank stuff for you.

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    • #3
      Thanks for that info. I called them up. I need to bring the parts to them to get a quote. Unfortunately the parts that are "peeled" I'm doing for $3-$4 each, so I hope it doesn't cost me too much more.


      Thanks though, it something I can keep in mind next time I have larger parts.

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      • #4
        I've wetsanded a few parts. I've used 220 grit wet/dry paper in a mixture of dish soap and water if it was a part I was going to re-coat. If it was a part I was just trying to make smooth as glass, I wet sand it with 500 grit, then 1200 grit and then polish with a good automobile polish. In the painting world, they call this "cut and buff". I recently had to coat a part that had been welded and also had a few rust pits. I used JB weld to fill the dips and craters, but after it was coated I could see the edges of the filler. I ended up wet sanding it and coating it 4 more times to get the build and feather so the body work isn't visible. BTW, don't sand the edges or corners. You don't want to polish through them!
        Don

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        • #5
          I forgot to mention this in my previous post. For metal parts that can handle high heat, I put my propane torch to them and burn the coating off. It'll light on fire real easy if the coating is new. Then the black soot blasts off real easy.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by BlindUmpire
            I forgot to mention this in my previous post. For metal parts that can handle high heat, I put my propane torch to them and burn the coating off. It'll light on fire real easy if the coating is new. Then the black soot blasts off real easy.
            WAY COOL!!! gonna Try this on my Control arms, man that will save a ton of time!!!!

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            • #7
              Thanks for the tips. How do I avoid peel though? Too much powder? Room temp./powder too cold? Should I distance the gun from the part more. Hopefully I can figure this out, I can't do stuff like this for people. I don't want to give out bad product.

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