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Sandy looking PC....

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  • customandsound
    Guest replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    I got this today with satin black on cheap jap metal. all i did is strip it then dip it in a Phosphate Dip And shoot the powder again. 9 out of 10 parts came out fine. I am doing a batch of custom tube bush bumpers..

    The first few i sanded with 220 and cleaned and coated.
    I think i got a bad batch of powder this time around.

    Like popeye said the tack rag is a good idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a shot!

    Leave a comment:


  • Popeye
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    You might try using an automotive style tack rag. Most of the automotive joints have them, if you use one just fluff it up and lightly go over the parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    Originally posted by fxstcguy98
    cruiser
    Put an additional moisture trap in the air line. Take your gun apart and clean everything. If all that fails, try sifting the powder to remove any larger particals.
    I gotta take the gun apart for sure, the trigger started sticking the other day.

    I already have 2 moisture seperators on the system, PLUS the little black one
    for the gun, and I shake the **** outta powder too.

    Leave a comment:


  • fxstcguy98
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    cruiser
    Put an additional moisture trap in the air line. Take your gun apart and clean everything. If all that fails, try sifting the powder to remove any larger particals.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    Doesn't seem to matter what the material is, has happened to both aluminum and steel parts. I do offgass at about 25 deg higher than curing temp for 20 minutes, then let cool before finishing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Popeye
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    Cruizer,
    Is it aluminum or steel you're having problems with? Some types of aluminum are just plain gassy.. Off gas 50f to 100f higher and about 15 minutes longer than your cure time. Let it cool off, spray the part and cure at the lower end of the temp range. That usually lessens the imperfections in the finish.

    There are powders that are specifically made to be off gas friendly.

    IMHO

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    I've done at least a couple dozen parts or so so far, but I am STILL having problems with getting a clean dust/lint free finish! I clean and degrease, beadblast, blow off the part, blow out the oven, blow out the powder booth, degrease again (I've used rags, paper towels, sponges, etc), lightly torch the part, blow the part off again, outgass, A)if needed tape of parts: tape parts, degrease, blow off part, powder, bake; B) if no taping needed: bake.

    Doesn't matter what I do, I see lint and sand. The only time I ever got a perfectly smooth surface was when I didn't have the powder on thick enough.

    And now my gun is spitting out globs of paint here and there (High Humidity). So when a glob sticks, I gotta blow off the part and paint again. Grrrr....

    Leave a comment:


  • Mick40
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    Now, I'm no expert and have only PC'ed about 10 parts and this is what I has worked for me. Of course, most of what I found out was from forum help!

    1. Bead blast the part
    2. Clean it with air
    3. Wipe with alcohol or degreaser
    4. Pre heat part

    Now most will say you only need to preheat Aluminum but I have found that heating the part helps the powder find places that are it doesn?t like to stick.

    5. Shoot the part
    6. Place in oven. Just because the oven temp is 400 doesn?t mean the part is at the temp. Get a temperature gun and shoot the part!

    7. Remove and enjoy

    Now this is what works for me. Just have fun and ask questions here.

    Mick

    Leave a comment:


  • corecoatings
    replied
    Re: Sandy looking PC....

    Hello, are you sand blasting your parts? I did a fuel rail in ceramic and had the same sandy finish due to a poor blast profile that I didn't sand down. Also, I have noticed that you can get away without hand sanding if you get the build thickness higher.

    Leave a comment:


  • Heavykote
    replied
    I may have an answer: I did a car computer cover and have the same thing. Sand or small particles. I sandblasted the part and I don't think I cleaned it properly. Try blowing off the part really good, then wiping it down with a dry rag, I use cotton tee shirts. Then, blow it off again and also blow out your oven before every use.
    I betcha you won't see any more sand or dust...

    Leave a comment:


  • sdold
    replied
    Jagboy69, I have the same effect on some cast aluminum yard lights that I am doing. I am using the same powder as you since I bought a can with the gun to see how it worked before I ordered any more.

    I have only had this problem on the cast aluminum pieces, these are old and porous and had surface corrosion, and looked like they were getting maybe some intergrannular corrosion too.

    The effect was as if there was sand on the part before coating. It was more apparent on the underside of the piece, where I didn't blast it as well.

    I think it is outgassing.

    Leave a comment:


  • DALE
    replied
    Ahhhh, another satisfied customer.

    Leave a comment:


  • BlindUmpire
    replied
    I had to comment...I've been attempting to coat a large part and it has been a pain! I'm thinking it doesn't heat up fast enough. Any comments on this? The part takes a good 45 minutes to come up to temp while smaller parts with the same color/temp schedule that come up to temperature sooner, cure nice and smooth. I'm also wondering if maybe the heat isn't circulating in my oven, causing uneven temp distribution? As a side note, The last time I tried to coat it, it had little black dots in the white. After reading this thread, I cleaned the oven really good and whallah! No more black spots. Caswell, you've got a great thing going here!

    Leave a comment:


  • Hemi-T
    replied
    The other Companies powder is way more expen$ive than Caswell's. You also don't know where it came from. HF buys absolute bottom dollar stuff. Try the same project with Caswell powder, and I'll bet it turns out better. Just my opinion...

    Hemi-T

    Post edited due to violation of the Terms of Use
    http://www.caswellplating.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=1482
    customandsound

    Leave a comment:

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