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My PREP WORK : Pics INSIDE>>>Comments??

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  • pdeinc
    replied
    Zip painter remover will take it off easily as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Blademan
    replied
    yea..........but it ain't fun.....best to use carb cleaner in a tank or a chemical like Jasco prmium.

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    replied
    thanks for the comment,

    Will sandblasting be strong enough to take off cured powder?

    Leave a comment:


  • pdeinc
    replied
    Always preheat ABOVE the temperature you plan to cure at. Otherwise more contaminants will come out of the metal. And aluminum valve covers are a pain to get right, but will be worth it, just plan on having to redo them at least once.

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    replied
    ya, those damn fords use a different aluminum ive heard

    Leave a comment:


  • 11111111
    replied
    ford parts never turn out well, really it wont be your fualt so dont worry to much about it. C'MON IT'LL BE PERFECT and if its not just blast it back down. I remember my mistakes better after i have had a few hours of blast time to re think the whole screw up.

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    replied
    well, from what i gather, I should still decrease these bad girls till they pass the white glove test.

    my starter kit arrived, but I out of town. Owell, any other comments??

    Leave a comment:


  • bzer1
    replied
    I also use simple green for degreasing. One suggestion I have for you is to heat it to about 90 degrees or so. There are many submersible heaters that will do the trick. After the parts are clean, I heat them up in the oven then clean em again, depending on how greasy they are, and what they are made of. Good results depend on good prep.

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    replied
    Anyone else have comments or advice?

    Also, since I have not actually recieved the kit yet, I have a question about pre heating. How long should I do it and what temp? When I am actually coating the part, can the part be at room temperature??


    Let me know, thanks guys!!

    Leave a comment:


  • CaptainChauncy
    replied
    I usually just degrease, sandblast, and preheat the parts to be coated. So if you did all that you should be fine. Make sure to preheat the parts to get any chemicals out of the part. It will save you from having to strip the parts again

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    replied
    Thanks for the comments, believe it or not, these parts have been soaked in a simple green mixture, scrubbed, sand blasted, and only one of the valve covers has been sanded. Not a major difference between the two.

    I thought they looked pretty good, did they not look clean to you capt'n?

    Let me know, I want to do it right the first time.

    Leave a comment:


  • CaptainChauncy
    replied
    I've always sandblasted my parts that are going to be powdercoated. Sandblasting them would be much faster than sanding them down. If you dont have access to a sandblaster try finding a local shop that will sandblast them for you.

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    replied
    Couple of more links: valve covers, and pullies.


    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nukeca...pg&.src=ph

    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nukeca...pg&.src=ph

    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nukeca...pg&.src=ph

    Leave a comment:


  • cabrego
    started a topic My PREP WORK : Pics INSIDE>>>Comments??

    My PREP WORK : Pics INSIDE>>>Comments??

    Hey guys I am expecting the starter kit in a few days. Here is a link to some of the parts will be coating. I would appreciate any comments or advice. Also, is it ok that there is minor scratches from sanding and the di grinder? Will the PC cover it fine? Let me know what ya think.

    These parts are almost oil free, but they do not pass the white glove test yet. I plan for one more stage of degrease before they get coated.

    Thanks!!

    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nukeca...pg&.src=ph
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