how long would i need to cure powder at 250 degrees? i'm gona try some plastic engine parts and want to keep the temp lower to prevent melting...
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no. this can be done the powder will flow at 275 300f and the plastic will be fine for 15 minutes .. You need to keep a eye on the part any longer than 15 and hotter than 300f will not be any good..
The reason i had to replace my covers is i did not keep an eye on them and i was on the phone when the timer went off.. i have done it to other covers and a catch can...
I will Post pic's
to add to this the caddy north star the intake is plastic ( abs) the neon 4 cyl intake is abs and the header run's close to it .. so this is a thing that can be done..
the plastics under the hood are more abs or graphite mat. And they need to hold up to the high under hood temps that reach 600-800F.
As for rubber /plastic not holding the powder this is false
Here is proof:
#1 is a sensor done in mirror red the plug is plastic and the body is abs
#2 is a tbi spacer done in silver Abs
( Plastic Abs )
Master cyl.. Seal and plunger still in never removed:
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The trick is to build the powder off a metal object and work your way out .. i shoot it at 8-10psi so the first coat of powder is charged and lay's on the part. then i turn the gun down to 5psi and i fog them til i get a nice coat on the part and cure..
The part is blasted with black beauty ( coal slag) i never had any problems and the customer has never had any peeling or flaking. the coating is 2-3 mil thick then i spray a automotive grade clear poly over it .
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i have mustang valve covers that are that abs plastic. being valve covers i think they can take a high heat temp. there is no metal on them at all. what if i pre-heat them first to help the powder stick? will that work?http://www.illwillinc.com/
PC'ing -> trods
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