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  • Pretreatment

    OK, so I am going to powder some pieces on my atv...
    1: I bead blast the pieces,
    2: wipe them down with paint thinner or final clean,
    3: preheat to 200*,
    4: shoot powder,
    5:bake at 375-400* until yummy.

    Is this correct?

    Should I use the Iron Phosphate? Pros/cons...

    Thanks for the help!

  • #2
    Re: Pretreatment

    Sounds correct to me...But when pre-heating (outgassing) I usually keep it around 250-300 and I outgass it for 10-15 minutes.


    • #3
      Re: Pretreatment

      Normally you don't need to pre-heat parts unless you need to off gas them.
      Old cast iron or cast aluminum..
      I was always told to off gas at a higher temperature (50-75+) than you're going to cure the powder at.


      • #4
        Re: Pretreatment

        thats what I've found work best- out-gassing at a higher temp, I do about 450 to 475 degrees- I've heard either hotter or longer than your curring temp/time for out gassing
        Save the trees- burn Rubber!


        • #5
          Re: Pretreatment

          I have mostly done just steel parts for an old car, and I have to confess. I have never done anything to my parts except bead blasted, used compressed air and a clean brush to dust the parts off and then PC'd them. Does this make me some sort of hack? My parts have been coming out great. I suppose I am just lazy. lol


          • #6
            Re: Pretreatment

            Be very careful about the paint thinner for cleaning because most solvents are oil based. I would use isopropyl.


            • #7
              Re: Pretreatment

              I usually blast, dip for a few sec's in muratic acid (diluted) wash off with water, dry, and wipe down befor shooting with acetone..
              Pro-Tech Powder Coating
              93976 Ocean Way
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              Gold Beach,Oregon