A few questions from those that know.

[JTW37]

I have a couple of questions, that I would like some input on, from those that know. These may seem like dumb questions, but then I've always been told, "if you don't know the answer, then it ain't dumb. Something I'm always telling my kids and grands.

Anyway here goes.
1. When you Media Blast, is it necessary to dip or spray with phosphate?
(The way I understand it is, it's to give the powder something to bite into.)
2. When you clean a part, do you need to submerse it in the solution and what are you using to clean?
(So far I have used Simple Green and only sprayed and scrubbed with a brush and then rinse in clean water.)
3. Do you attempt to keep the thickness (gauge) of steel the same when baking, so the flow out will be the same or can you mix and match?
(I've done both, to load the oven, like backing plates and a Master Cylinder together)

I'm an Ole Dog (just turned 60) so teach me some new tricks, (about powder coating )

I've learned tons from you folks out here, and really do appreciate what you give up to those of us that are trying to learn.
Many Thanks, JT

[Harleydad]

Re: A few questions from those that know.

I have a couple of questions, that I would like some input on, from those that know. These may seem like dumb questions, but then I've always been told, "if you don't know the answer, then it ain't dumb. Something I'm always telling my kids and grands.

Anyway here goes.
1. When you Media Blast, is it necessary to dip or spray with phosphate?
(The way I understand it is, it's to give the powder something to bite into.)
No, it isn't necesary
2. When you clean a part, do you need to submerse it in the solution and what are you using to clean?
(So far I have used Simple Green and only sprayed and scrubbed with a brush and then rinse in clean water.)
Whatever it takes to get the part clean. Just be sure you rinse well.
3. Do you attempt to keep the thickness (gauge) of steel the same when baking, so the flow out will be the same or can you mix and match?
(I've done both, to load the oven, like backing plates and a Master Cylinder together)
Yes, do attempt to keep the similar substrates together. You wouldn't want 1/4" steel plate in the oven with .050 aluminum. One will get to cure temp much quicker than the other and run the risk of over curing the thinner of the two.I'm an Ole Dog (just turned 60) so teach me some new tricks, (about powder coating )

I've learned tons from you folks out here, and really do appreciate what you give up to those of us that are trying to learn.
Many Thanks, JT

Hope this helps.

[baz]

Re: A few questions from those that know.

i agree with harleydad but when i have different substrates i set my cure cycle on the heavier parts , most powders can easily support overcure as long as you don t over temp. but if the difference in substrate is extreme then i start my bigger parts then after about 15 minutes i add the smaller ones

[XK120DHC]

Re: A few questions from those that know.

I have a couple of questions...

1. When you Media Blast, is it necessary to dip or spray with phosphate?
(The way I understand it is, it's to give the powder something to bite into.)
2. When you clean a part, do you need to submerse it in the solution and what are you using to clean?
(So far I have used Simple Green and only sprayed and scrubbed with a brush and then rinse in clean water.)

Let me add a few things to the proper & correct answers you have already received on the above questions..
On "media blasting", depending on what you are using, you may or may not be adding "tooth" to the metal, which does aid the paint, powdercoating, etc., to stick.. I blast with "real #4 Blasting Sand" (get back, everyone thinks I breathe silicosis.. I assume you have a second brain cell that knows to use the proper safety equipment/respirator, etc.) that has been "recycled" (reused) three or four times and produces a "satin finish", as well as the necessary "tooth" on the metal.. plastic beads, soda blasting, etc. do not add "tooth".. nor do they clean the rust out of any pits in the metal.
Once the part is in "bare metal", and depending on what the humidity levels are where you live, you may have anywhere from a couple of minutes to months before surface rust starts to form (coastal areas have seconds!!) so you WILL need to powdercoat the part immediately.
On the cleaning.. I've heard "Simple Green" is good, a number of electroplaters use Dawn Diswashing Liquid to clean their parts prior to plating, it is a good grease cutter as well.. others use a product called "SP Degreaser" (Caswell sells this-- it's good stuff!).. parts are cleaned in a 140-200 degree bath of this degreaser, and it cuts the grease!! I believe it is "caustic based" so heavy rubber gloves, eye/face protection are required, but the stuff is safe enough to be diluted and poured down a household drain (follow instructions, local EPA laws, etc. usual "CYA" stuff)
The Most Important thing is... DO NOT Sandblast a greasy or tar coated part, ever!! The air pressure from blasting will drive the grease/tar into the "pores" of the metal and this WILL cause you problems later.. So, the strongest advise I can offer is to clean/degrease your parts before you do any blasting (some platers/powdercoaters, myself included, even degrease the parts AFTER blasting, as well!!), clean part again, to remove any possible residue of the SP Degreaser (if you opt to use it)... it should go without saying, but NEVER touch a freshly blasted bare metal part with your oily hands!! Wear Nitrile Gloves!
I hope the above adds a bit of useful information to your mental metal prep files and is of some help to you.

[JTW37]

Re: A few questions from those that know.

Thanks Charles.
Any info from those who know is always helpful and very much appreciated. I spent 30 years as a Locomotive Engineer and was always offering info to those who didn't know in hopes of keeping them from running out in front of trains and live to see another day.

Not that this isn't as dangerous, but then maybe. As for media, I have used and still do use Black Magic (recycled many times), which seems to give me that surface that is acceptable for powder. I do not blast anything that has not be throughly cleaned. No grease in my media. Don't use plastic or soda for blasting. As for the cleaning, I don't currently have a heated tank for dipping, which, as times goes by will be put into service for cleaning and adding running water to my shop as well. As for rust forming, it varies in Northern Indiana, but got your drift.

Nitrile gloves I have and No I don't and won't touch a fresh blasted part, bare handed. So, I have learned some things from here. Many thanks to all.
JT